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Deep Creek
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Unsorted Routes:

Leakage 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,927
Submitted By: JohnWesely on Oct 18, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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BETA PHOTO: Leakage in its blurry glory.

Description 

Leakage is one amazing haul. Without any of the no hands rest that plague the other routes on the wall, Leakage requires some real recovery. The shakeouts are there but each one yields a little less, and the climbing doesn't let up until the top.


Location 

Leakage is located on the left side of the Main Wall and is identified by a slightly lower than normal first bolt and a crack feature up high.


Protection 

Bolts.



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Getting started in the steeps
Getting started in the steeps
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 2, 2012
By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Oct 18, 2011

Leakage is 12a.

By Blake Cash
Nov 3, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Yep, 12a.

By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Nov 3, 2011

I have never been on a harder 12a and have been on easier 12b's.

By Blake Cash
Nov 4, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Well...it's 12a. Don't know what to tell you. Go do Occamm's Blazer and Strutter which are 12b and you'll see the difference.

By s f
From: GA/CO
Nov 5, 2011

In my buddy John's defense, while his assessment may not match the consensus, he is generally solid at the grade/style in question and is by nature not a grandstander. Either way, it looks fun! Deep Creek is an awesome crag.

By GMBurns
Nov 6, 2011

That Weseley dude is soft. I watched him brownpoint a 5.6 in the 'Gunks once. He has no idea what he's talking about.

By D Snyder
From: Virgin, Utah
Nov 6, 2011

If John thinks it's 12b it's probably 11d. But I heard 11d is the new 12b so he's probably spot on.

By Michael Penn
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 21, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I think 12b is fine for this route. I personally thought it was quite a bit harder than strutter, but I haven't tried occum's. I think if you compare it to other classic 12b's around the country: Mercy the Huff, Easy Skankin', Technosurfin' etc the grade(and quality) seems very similar.

By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Nov 22, 2011

I have a quick question: what is MP.com's accepted ethic for adding routes and their grades? My policy has always been to go with the accepted guidebook grade when I enter a route and then mention any thoughts one way or the other in the comments or grade vote. Is this the standard or do others go with a different approach? I ask because the standard accepted grade for Leakage is 12a. It's not a new route (a few years old with many people climbing on it) and it has a consensus grade (12a).

By yevquest
From: Southeast,US
Nov 22, 2011

I'm trying to follow rule #1 and not be a jerk but I wanted to finish my thoughts on grades and try to stop grade inflation at Deep Creek.
To compare this with some showpiece 12b routes (Mercy (RRG), Easy Skanking (Rifle), Technosurfing (Rumney), Mentor (VRG), Super Mickey (Ceuse), Mr. Big (Potrero), Great White Behemoth or Happiness in Slavery (Tensleep)), it's easier than all of them. To say that Leakage is as hard as Jesus and Tequila is laughable. Leakage is all jugs and fairly straightforward.

By Michael Penn
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Nov 22, 2011
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

I will admit that I have been a little disingenuous with my route comparisons. Two of them I did as a far less developed climber and one I have done probably 100 or more times. My comment mostly comes from conversations with my friend Warren. His "guide" for Deep Creek had the grade on leakage scratched out and written in as 12b, from that and a conversation we had comparing it to the aforementioned classics I thought the grade was fairly accepted. I am surprised by such strong feeling toward this grade and I will certainly defer to your judgment. The fact that I am new to the area and I honestly haven't spent much time climbing on 5.12's lately make me a less suitable judge for the grade of this climb.

By Kyle Benge
From: Collegedale, TN
Nov 28, 2011

On the first attempt this route did seem harder, but once you've figured out the movement it's not so bad. A few fun technical moves at the bottom lead to jugs the rest of the way. This route is one of my favorite that i've done so far at deep creek. I'd give it a 12a/b... There's really not a small hold on the route. It may have been rated 12b because it is more sustained then some of the other 12a's... AND STEEP! (but most everything is steep here). Lower off about 35 feet from the base of the cliff! Good route.

By JohnWesely
From: Red River Gorge
Apr 4, 2012

FWIW, I was told Leakage was 12b by other climbers. The rating on enduro routes is always going to be wonky. Having slightly better endurance can be the difference between a quickly ticking pump clock and getting full recovery on every move.

By dave wilson
Jul 2, 2012

I think once you have climbed more at deep creek you would say 12a. It is the standard for the grade there. Quite a bit easier than Occam's Blazer for sure.