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League of Doom 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R [details]
FA: Jon Frank, Duane Raleigh 1980
Page Views: 2,870
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Oct 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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We are heading to the second pitch on League of Do...

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1: 5.10R, maybe X. Begin in the poison ivy and climb the corner. When the crack ends at a bulge, gear up really good, then face climb right a few moves and then up and around the bulge (run-out). It is possible to get a nut in a pocket in the middle of the face. You can then traverse back to the crack for pro or go straight up (slightly easier) to the bolted anchors.

P2: 5.11R. Crank up the wall just to the left of the anchors. About 10 feet up, you can use a rotten flake, but pull down (not out!). Get the first bolt, then go up the underclings past another bolt and then right to a hand crack. A #4 TCU can be placed in the undercling above the first bolt. Follow the crack up and to the right to a nice ledge with bolted anchors.

Now grab the draws and head up Spaceballs!!

Location 

The corner left of the main pool with all the poison ivy. 2 single-rope raps from the top of Spaceballs.

Protection 

Rack up to 3", and quickdraws.


Photos of League of Doom Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Two pitches of League of Doom
BETA PHOTO: Two pitches of League of Doom
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the crux
Approaching the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Cosgriff starting pitch 2
Tom Cosgriff starting pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Cosgriff at the crux of League of Doom
Tom Cosgriff at the crux of League of Doom
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Cosgriff on 2nd pitch League of Doom around 19...
Tom Cosgriff on 2nd pitch League of Doom around 19...
Rock Climbing Photo: League of Doom - Pitch 1 photo
BETA PHOTO: League of Doom - Pitch 1 photo

Comments on League of Doom Add Comment
Show which comments
By adampeters
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Dec 26, 2006

Probably one of the best routes anywhere! The first pitch can also be protected with a 00 Wild Country in the pocket on the face. It may not be a very great placement, but it instills a little confidence.
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jan 31, 2007

Its three single raps to the ground from the top of spaceballs (since that linkup means three pitches).
By Tony Mayse
Mar 28, 2011

I have always linked the top two pitches.

If you are feeling solid the entire route can be done in one long pitch. Place long runners on everything and you will have min. rope drag.
By b.kaiserauer
Apr 15, 2012

cool tony.
By Herndon
Jan 17, 2016

Careful on the first pitch. There have been at least two groundfalls on this pitch that I know of. Yes, there is a spot for a small nut, but it is shallow and not that good, so the first pitch is 5.9X. I dunno where the 5.10 rating came from, but you had better be solid at the grade. The crux is only 1 move, but I would suggest that you do not fall. The second pitch is great.
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
May 14, 2016

League of Doom linked with Spaceballs is the jewel of the Wichitas and is probably the only route in the area that would still be a classic if it were located at a major destination. Each of the 3 pitches is unique and fun in its own way. I thought P1 was technical 9+, P2 has a short but powerful (and mega classic) 11b/c crux and P3 (Spaceballs) is sustained, overhanging juggy 5.10 jugs so it probably warrants 11-.

One note on P1. I've done both variations and the left variation is well protected and more fun so I'm not sure why anyone would go right and face a long whipper. At the top of the lower crack place a good piece, step right and up and place an OK nut or tiny cam in a pocket/slot in the middle of the face then make one move up then work left over the bulge to reach the upper, wide crack (bomber #4 cam). The rest is obvious.

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