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Lichen Wall
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League of Doom 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Jon Frank, Duane Raleigh 1980
Page Views: 1,881
Submitted By: Craig Childre on Oct 5, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: League of Doom - Pitch 1 photo

Access is always an issue here. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1: 5.10R, maybe X. Begin in the poison ivy and climb the corner. When the crack ends at a bulge, gear up really good, then face climb right a few moves and then up and around the bulge (run-out). It is possible to get a nut in a pocket in the middle of the face. You can then traverse back to the crack for pro or go straight up (slightly easier) to the bolted anchors.

P2: 5.11R. Crank up the wall just to the left of the anchors. About 10 feet up, you can use a rotten flake, but pull down (not out!). Get the first bolt, then go up the underclings past another bolt and then right to a hand crack. A #4 TCU can be placed in the undercling above the first bolt. Follow the crack up and to the right to a nice ledge with bolted anchors.

Now grab the draws and head up Spaceballs!!

Location 

The corner left of the main pool with all the poison ivy. 2 single-rope raps from the top of Spaceballs.

Protection 

Rack up to 3", and quickdraws.


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By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Dec 26, 2006

Probably one of the best routes anywhere! The first pitch can also be protected with a 00 Wild Country in the pocket on the face. It may not be a very great placement, but it instills a little confidence.
By Jordan Ramey
From: Calgary, Alberta
Jan 31, 2007

Its three single raps to the ground from the top of spaceballs (since that linkup means three pitches).
By Tony Mayse
Mar 28, 2011

I have always linked the top two pitches.

If you are feeling solid the entire route can be done in one long pitch. Place long runners on everything and you will have min. rope drag.
By brian.Kaiserauer
Apr 15, 2012

cool tony.
By DWR2
From: Dallas, TX
Jun 22, 2014

Really fun route. The first pitch is a little runout and sketchy but 100% worth it.