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Leading Should Feel This Way 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 5,435
Submitted By: Keegan Dimmick on Apr 30, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (32)
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josh pulling through the second roof

Description 

This route climbs the large roof to the right side of the crag. Start at a very high first bolt (consider stick clipping, placing a small cam, or getting some balls). Clip the second bolt below the large roof (decking possibilities). Pull the roof using the small rail and some heel hooks. Clip the next bolt and shake out. Begin to follow the bolts slightly to the right and then left toward the anchors. Fight the pump through this section and find good rests for the run to the anchors. This route is the gem of the crag.

Location 

This route climbs straight through the middle of the large roof on the right side of the crag. From the left, this is the fourth bolted route.

Protection 

6 bolts and ring anchors. You can use a TCU or nut to protect yourself before the first bolt.


Photos of Leading Should Feel This Way Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt on Leading should feel this way; great overha...
BETA PHOTO: Matt on Leading should feel this way; great overha...
Rock Climbing Photo: simon williams pulling the first roof
simon williams pulling the first roof
Rock Climbing Photo: met a couple of very friendly locals... i think th...
met a couple of very friendly locals... i think th...
Rock Climbing Photo: lil sequence of the roof pull :)
lil sequence of the roof pull :)
Rock Climbing Photo: The roof of "Leading Should Feel This Way.&qu...
The roof of "Leading Should Feel This Way.&qu...

Comments on Leading Should Feel This Way Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 23, 2016
By BrianWS
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Fun roof pulling and sustained overhung climbing afterward. As for the first bolt, please opt for the stick clip or a piece of gear lower down rather than just "growing some balls" if you are not 100% solid at the grade.
By Bob Ewing
From: Arlington
Nov 6, 2013

Excellent route. I agree with BrianWS, definitely protect yourself before the high first bolt. A #0.4 BD cam works perfect. I placed a #1 BD cam after 2nd bolt and overhang, then removed the #1 after clipping the 3rd bolt. Probably the best climb at the crag.
By aribtraryusername
Dec 1, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

as of 11/30/2014 there was an added first bolt protecting the start of this route (not placed by me). so the small cam at the bottom is no longer necessary. it also seems like the last bolt may have been relocated, it seemed in a much better place to clip than i remembered previously.
By Keegan Dimmick
From: Winchester, VA
Dec 1, 2014

Why are we adding extra bolts to this route?!?! This route has been climbed for years without serious issues. Like most people say, just use a small cam and then climb to the first bolt. Not ok.
By Edwin B
Dec 1, 2014

At the very least, it'd be nice to know who is putting in new bolts/routes here.
By aribtraryusername
Dec 2, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

ftr, a few months ago we saw a leader deck when their small cam pulled, and the paramedics had to be called--it was not a good landing on the boulder by the start. i wonder if the new bolt was inspired by that injury.
By Edwin B
Dec 2, 2014

Understandable; and there's a legitimate question about a cam being required for a bolted route at an almost entirely bolted crag. I would still like to know who's active with a drill in our area, so if you or anyone else reading has any information, please send me a message. Not trying to stir anything up.
By Keegan Dimmick
From: Winchester, VA
Dec 11, 2014

If the first bolt is too high go climb a different route or learn how to place a proper cam. I've had cams pop out on me and guess what, I didn't add a bolt. I came back and placed the cam again, but in a better location. If you didn't get the FA, don't add any bolts. Pretty plain and simple.
By Colin Dandridge
From: Golden
Feb 8, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I also saw a climber deck last year and the belayer went tumbling backwards 30 feet down the hill leaving me to suspect his belaying may have effected the cam placement...Oh well, bring an extra draw now..And a helmet !
By Fajita Dave
From: Barboursville, VA
Mar 23, 2015

Its a sport route, you shouldn't need any trad gear. Just saying......
By Charlotte211
Oct 2, 2015

I climbed this route, ad only being 5'1, it was really hard! The first route was good enough, but the second one made me take my first fall.
By Jeff Beavers
May 23, 2016

I'm not sure if this goes along with the people adding new bolts issues, but I climbed this over the weekend and found the bolt line pretty hard to follow. First, under the roof there was another bolt off to the right that sort of lead me astray on the lower portion of the climb. What is this bolt for? The next climb right is Big Balls, and the description does not make sense with this extra bolt. Second, there was a ridiculous amount of rope drag once I got to the anchor. I am thinking this might be my fault. The only rings I found at the top were to the left, and maybe they were the top of Foops? This basically made the route impossible to clean, so I had to be lowered and climb it again on top rope to get my draws back.

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