|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 40'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Jim Foote, Woody Stark, Dick Webster 1966|
|Submitted By:||Woody Stark on Oct 29, 2005|
|Comments on Leader's Fright||Add Comment|
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Feb 18, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Gain access to the base by climbing the chimney to the right of the eye route. Route starts in a dark corner with a shallow crack off of a large flat shelf.
Protect crack low with medium stopper and then a small Metolius cam in a horizontal about 8 feet up from the deck. Bomber handcrack for 1" cam which can be difficult to place as that's where your hand is. Climbing eases as you follow the crack up and left. Bringing long slings allows you to sling a horn or two. Follow up to a chimney where you'll see tons of trash at the bottom and follow up to top left. Two crack systems (one on left where you are and one vertical on right) allow for many choices to set anchors. Left crack takes 2-3" right vertical takes .5 to 1.5".
As for the R rating of this route - new .8 leaders take extra caution as you start but the landing is flat. The shallow crack does take pro - use it.
Walk off to back side of formation towards the Manx boulders.