Lead Farmer  5.12c

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Consensus:  5.12c [details] FA:  Mark Anderson, 6 Nov. 11 New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Monomaniac on Nov 7, 2011 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

"Respect to you, tiny Ant King!"

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Description 

Lead Farmer is the "direct" start to Observe God's Mistake. Not only substantially more difficult, this line is also substantially more enjoyable, avoiding the awkward stemming crux of OGM and adding a much nicer slab start.

Stick clip the first bolt from the ledge, then cruise up the fun slab to a great stance below the bulge. Lieback strenuously along the diagonaling rail to reach a set of good crimps and a difficult clip. A few desperate moves lead out of the scoop to a headwall of thin pockets. Work delicately back left to join OGM, and cruise the prickly slab to the anchor.

Location 

Begin at ground level, ~10 feet right of OGM, up a long gray slab.

Protection 

6 bolts to 2BA (shared with OGM). Stick clip recommended.

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Lead Farmer climbs the steep groove on the left si...

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