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Le Veuve Noire 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1+

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 250'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a C1+ [details]
FA: Paul Stoner, Feb. 2011
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 276
Submitted By: Paul S on Mar 6, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The Irishman Temple as seen from the trail.

Description 

This route climbs a sustained and steep crack up the south face of the upper Irishman's Temple.

P1: This pitch follows the obvious crack through a roof to the second bedding seam on the tower. There's a nice pod with a ledge to set up a belay (#0.75 Camalots work well). The crack ranges from fingers to fists. It could be free climbed at 5.11ish (I'm only guessing, I happily just aided up the thing), the only problem is there's a lot of dirt in the cracks and most of the features on the face (and some in the cracks) are pealing off. C1+, 100'.

P2: Continue up the crack via an OW that quickly goes to fingers through some junk rock. Free climb up the chimney with no pro for a bit to some more OW on some very, very soft rock. This will lead you to the top of a pillar leaning against the main tower and also to the top of P2 of The Cleansing. Use The Cleansing's anchor or continue to the top up the short face. 5.9 C1, 150'.

Rap The Cleansing in 3 raps (one short one back to the top of the pillar) with 2 60 m ropes. Be careful with the second rap down, the climb is overhanging and you'll be in the air and to the right of the next anchor, so you'll have to do a combo of swinging and running across the wall to get to the anchor, pretty exciting!

It's a beautiful summit up there, and right next to it is the untouched summit of the lower Irishman's Temple. And by right next to it, I mean you'll get the idea that you could just hop on over there. Flat landing, a little lower, I'm pretty damn sure it can be done and that it would be very similar to the jump on the Mace in Sedona.

Location 

Irishman's Temple is located between Monument Canyon and Gold Star Canyon. Park off of South Broadway (the same parking spot as for Tiara Rado Buttress) and take the obvious trail up. It's the obvious double tower. The route is located behind the tower on the south face. The route climbs on the opposite side of the pillar that The Cleansing climbs.

Protection 

Double set of cams from fingers to fists with a few extra mid range sizes. I brought and used 2 of each the #4.5 and #5 Camalots (the old sizes), but you could probably be fine with just one of each.


Photos of Le Veuve Noire Slideshow Add Photo
The route goes up the crack in the middle of the p...
BETA PHOTO: The route goes up the crack in the middle of the p...

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