|Redgarden - Roof Routes
Le Verne tackles the complete Redgarden Wall in five long pitches of climbing, four of which are excellent 5.10. This link-up starts on Le Toit, connects with Rosy Crucifixion to gain the Upper Ramp, then follows Love Minus Zero to T2 to the finish of Jules Verne. If you are looking for a challenging and varied 5.10, and are tired of repeating Super Slab, consider this little classic.
P1 (5.10d with 5.9s): Climb Le Toit through the large roof, combining pitches 1 and 2, and belay at 2 bolts. Long slings lower down and on the anchors atop the first pitch reduce rope drag on the roof. P2 (5.10b with 5.8s): Climb directly up above the belay, then traverse straight left at some fixed pins, and up and left to reach the top of pitch 2 on Rosy Crucifixion. Continue through the third pitch and run it out to the large tree with rap slings and belay. Again, good use of long slings down low reduces rope drag up high. Traverse over to the base of the Upper Redgarten Wall, then walk down to Love Minus Zero, immediately left of the start of Upper T2. P3 (5.10b s): Follow the left-diagonal crack (5.9+) up a beautiful, lichenous wall to a nice ledge on your left. Now climb the shallow left-facing corner above to a stance at the top of the difficulties. Load up on small to mid-size wires for this lead, and include some small RPs for the 5.10 corner. P4 (5.7): Follow T2 up the large right-facing corner, then just before that climb traverses left up the rotten band climb straight right 25 feet and belay on a ledge. It is possible to peek around the corner at the fourth pitch of the Naked Edge from this belay. P5 (5.10d): Climb the final Jules Verne bulge, a bit of rotten rock at a flake to a finger crack up and left, then follow a fun and sustained face (5.9) to the top. Descend the East Slabs.
Small RPs to 3.5 inch cam. Load up on small - medium wires and TCUs.
|By Bryson Slothower|
May 4, 2003
[Brilliant] link up! I'd have to call the 1st pitch .11a and would consider an S rating for the roof on the last pitch. I did the first pitch of Le Void off the Upper Ramp and moved around the corner from the sling belay to join with the second pitch of Love Minus Zero and [recommend] it as well.