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Le Teton 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim McCarthy, Stan Gross, Spring 1955. FFA: Art Gran, Lito Tejada-Flores, 1965
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Submitted By: Mike fenice on Jul 17, 2006
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I'm just past the crux on Le Teton. Photo by Kayte...
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  • Description 

    In any other part of the country this would easily be 5.10a. It actually reminds me of "Rosy Crucifixion" in Eldo, but slightly less scary.

    There are many variations to the top: pick one and go ...

    The climb starts in the crack on the left-facing face below the tree. Traverse into the crack and head straight up. At the end of the crack, traverse left under the energy-depleting roof then around the corner, clipping a couple of junky pins. From here, head up and slightly right - don't clip the pin on your left, as it will create too much drag. Instead, place a #2 Camalot with a long sling. Make a few more 5.8 moves to the top and belay at a two-bolt anchor.

    Two ropes to the ground, or one rope to another pair of bolts.


    Start from P2 of Northern Pillar. You'll be climbing the right side of the massive Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst buttress.


    Standard rack.

    Photos of Le Teton Slideshow Add Photo
    After the crux, the climbing is a steep but easy jugfest. Photo by Shelly Barker
    After the crux, the climbing is a steep but easy j...
    The party behind us on Le Teton whips at the crux. Caught this shot when rapping after I finished (and whipped, too...) the same route.
    The party behind us on Le Teton whips at the crux....
    The beginning of the pitch.
    The beginning of the pitch.
    The last good stance for a while on Le Teton. Photo by Mark Schambra
    The last good stance for a while on Le Teton. Phot...
    End of the vertical crack, ready to start the pumpy traverse on Le Teton. Photo by Mark Schambra
    End of the vertical crack, ready to start the pump...
    Dave finishing up Le Teton
    Dave finishing up Le Teton
    With the left hand on the jug, the short but pumpy traverse on Le Teton is done. Photo by Mark Schambra
    With the left hand on the jug, the short but pumpy...
    Comments on Le Teton Add Comment
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    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 28, 2013
    By JoeLeiper
    Feb 19, 2008

    Crux pitch is excellent. Strenuous, really on you for about 15 feet. Exposed for Gunks. Big holds; 5.7 if vertical. Those in marginal shape--as I was when led this--can step left to place gear and back to ledge to rest before committing. Don't bother with lower pitches. Scramble up 5.3 face just to the right of start to the good part.

    By eric larson
    From: aurora, co
    Apr 22, 2008
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

    greaaat pitch.. i wish it were longer though.. the moves are so much fun. the jug haul goes 5.8 probably, with the crux (for me) being the crack and traverse.. super exposed!

    By Steven Cherry
    Jun 12, 2010

    A #3 Camelot is very useful.

    By BrianRH
    Dec 22, 2010

    If you have a third, send a photographer up on top of the easy 5.2 in the corner. The jug haul up the arete is one of the best places in the Gunks to get wild shots.

    By Michal Pasniewski
    Jun 20, 2011

    You can approach on P1 of Figerlocks or Cedar Box, 60m rope brings you to the belay block or the tree.

    By paulmadry
    Jul 27, 2011
    rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b

    Has anyone done it via the arete (i think it's Mister G). It would make it into full length pitch of superexposed 5.8-5.9 (that overall feels more like 5.10 I guess).

    By doligo
    Aug 2, 2011

    Paul: yes, it is described here, I believe:

    Makes it a nice longer and sustained climb.

    By gblauer
    From: Wayne, PA
    Jun 20, 2012

    very exposed. Nice burly jug haul at the end. Fun.

    By RyderS
    From: Boston, MA
    May 19, 2013

    Definitely required solid sequencing to fire the crux. Found myself in an outrageous laid out position above so much air! The creative sequencing definitely made it easier than trying to let my lockoff endurance carry me through... Great climb!

    By Simon Thompson
    From: New Paltz, NY
    Oct 20, 2013
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

    Really fun climb with a pumpy crux and an exposed finish on some absolutely massive jugs. I took a completely unexpected whip onto a solid #2 at the beginning of the crux traverse sequence.

    By Pawel
    From: NJ
    Oct 28, 2013
    rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

    One of the best 5.9s. The exposed crux face has great moves and the juggy finish is pure fun. If only it were longer...