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Vampire Rock
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Heart of the Narrows 
Le Stat 
Monkey's Sister 
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That's Weak 
Trash It and Move On 
Vampire, The 
Wanker 

Le Stat 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 140'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Horan, 1996
Page Views: 900
Submitted By: richard magill on Jun 22, 2003
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Description 

This is a fun, two-pitch route that looks like a complete slab from the ground - be prepared for a surprisingly steep crux.

Pitch 1 starts with a 10+ move right off the deck over a boulder. You get a clip before you start, but make sure your belayer is paying close attention. Twenty feet of easy climbing leads to a headwall that is not slabby, but may even be overhanging by a degree or two. Work up a technical diagonal undercling to a long reach and a clip - followed by another long reach, all with horrid feet. This is the crux (11d). Then you finish with an 11a slab.

Pitch 2 is the rightmost of the two lines that leave from the ledge. This pitch has excellent stone and nice continuity (11c).

Le Stat is the rightmost of all the lines on Vampire. After you come up the trail, go right about 30 feet to find it.


Protection 

P1: 9 bolts. P2: 9 bolts.



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By Richard M. Wright
From: Lakewood, CO
Jun 8, 2004

The crux on P1 seemed hard for the grade, but it also appeared as though there were two ways to do it: going straight up from the finger ledge and then traversing left or traversing left on the finger ledge and chucking for the horn on very bad feet (this seemed pretty hard). Good stone despite the whipping.

By Bob Rotert
Jun 15, 2005

First pitch is very hard for the grade. Not what you would expect for a Boulder Canyon 11d. This would be a hard on sight on less you were prepared or told what to expect. After failing first time up trying to move statically thru the crux. I moved left on the finger tip crack and dynoed for the horn with bad feet. Once executed it seemed not bad. Kind of a quick boulder problem move. Seemed hard the first time up but once I did it in retrospect it did not seem too bad. Perhaps that is the reason for the 11d rating. I am not sure what I would rate it for the onsight.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
May 14, 2009

I think 11+ is a good rating for the first pitch. A hard undercling move (FULL extension deadpoint for me) gets you to the bolt before the crux. I tried both ways (straight up and left) and think left is a bit more reasonable for an verage height person. I was nowhere close to reaching the crimp flake straight up (I'm 5'10").

I started up the ramp directly under the crux section instead of starting on the left with the 10+ boulder move traversing up and right. Personally, I think this way is more straight-forward.

This pitch is nothing to write home about but the pitches above are pretty cool!

By Aaron Martinuzzi
Jun 22, 2010

It's undeniable that this routes features decent climbing on good rock, but the cruxes were very beta-dependent; some of the toughest hard 11s I've been on. I think that calling the second pitch 11c is misleading, however. While the crux is less steep than the P1 crux, the holds are smaller and the moves more balance-y. 11++ for both pitches.

By mtoensing
From: Boulder
Jul 17, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

Haha, I agree with Aaron's 5.11++ rating. It makes things more interesting.