Le Spunk 5.11d
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| Type: | Sport, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | LeeAB on Jun 28, 2006 |
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Working through the crux
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Description A little atypical for Maple in that it is not really all that pumpy.
Start out with some long moves off the ground to a small roof. Get your game face on because the next 20-25 feet is the meat of the route. Move up on sidepulls and cool pockets past a nice pinch on your way to a straight down pulling hold just below the obvious 1 foot roof. make a couple more difficult move over the roof to the spike that marks the end of the difficulties. While there are other moves up above that might make you stop to think there are also numerous great rests and the wall is less steep.
One you reach the anchors, if you are feeling good consider trying the extension Super Spunk.
Location First route to the right of Dry Times. Find the big dihedral, Dry Times, out left of the main cave. This is the first route right of the dihedral and arete.
Protection Many bolts to chains
Cranking threw the crux
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M&M touching the tree, nearing the end of the crux...
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By Paul Hunnicutt
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 6, 2007
rating: 5.12a
| The bottom is pretty continuous, but straightforward. The undercling holds at the roof suck, but if you can just bust through there and get to the horn the hard climbing is all over. There is a huge sidepull up and left of the roof, before you move back right to the horn. Then just fight the pump on 5.9/5.10 climbing to the finish. |
By sawyer wylie
From: utah
May 23, 2011
rating: 5.12a
| Stelar! so fun! What Paul says is pretty much true. The under cling is not that bad though, and when you get to a huge rail 3/4 the way up or so, just pause, maybe get a heel hook next to it, shake out, and enjoy the view! |
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