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Southeast Face
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Le Petit Francais 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 400'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 1,627
Submitted By: Aaron Martinuzzi on Mar 4, 2010

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BETA PHOTO: Le Petit Francais climbs the sunlit, left-facing d...

Description 

Le Petit is another great easy route on the Southeast Face that ascends an obvious, left-facing corner system to the top of the wall east of the summit.

P1 - Climb the corner and adjacent face through an overlap (5.6) at the first roof band. Belay just above in the crack system, or climb a bit more to a decent ledge. 5.6, 150 feet.

P2 - Continue up the face and corner system. A 45-degree quartzite groove breaks left soon after the ledge. Follow this (great 5.5, no pro) or the corner (dirtier, 5.5 with pro), and either way head up and right as the corner dips off toward tree. Belay if you're so inclined. 5.5, 90 feet.

P3 - Pick your way up face and finger cracks above, 5.4 - 5.6, 150+ feet.


Location 

Francais climbs a left-facing dihedral about 200 feet climber's right of Central Chimney. It's easy to locate, the start of the climb is right off the summit trail, about 25 feet behind a trail marker located where the trail runs parallel and near to the main face.


Protection 

A standard rack works fine for this line. Like Central Chimney, no RPs or tiny gear needed, just cams and nuts. Pro is generally good on this route, with just a couple shallow, flaring crack sections to give trouble to a new leader. The climbing is secure throughout, though.



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By SteveF
From: Fort Collins, CO
Apr 13, 2014
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This route can be climbed as 2 very long pitches with a 60m rope by setting the first belay station in a corner with a finger crack that is just up and to the right of a small tree and the quartzite band past the first roof. From here, climb up towards the short dihedral to the left of a large tree, then make your way up meandering cracks. You can barely make it to one of the trees on the summit if you try to follow a direct route and use a couple of 4ft slings to reduce rope drag. The first pitch is pretty fun.