Le Nouveau Riche 5.10b PG13
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 85 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | Richard Rossiter and Steve Ilg, 1987 |
| Submitted By: | Andrew Wellman on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Erin, 4 1/2, 3'6", trying the start.
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Description Third route from the right. This route is just to the right of Topless Etiquette. It is interesting, because it's only got three bolts in about 60-70 feet of climbing. I think this gives the route its character. It's a really slabby route that requires good balance and footwork, and it's quite runout. There is deckout potential if you fell off of easy moves. The three bolts are at the only three places you really need them, and not everywhere in between, just for the sake of having a bolt every four feet. Be confident at the grade and style of climbing. The crux comes at the second and third bolts, with sustained thin slab climbing up a right-facing corner. Can toprope this route after leading Topless Etiquette to the higher anchor. Place a directional runner on the top bolt if you do this.
Protection Three bolts plus small-to-medium gear. 2-bolt anchor.
Eva just through the crux.
| Leading Le Nouveau Riche. Photo by Eva R.
| Le Nouveau Riche. Photo by Eva R.
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| Comments on Le Nouveau Riche |
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By Mark Ferguson Oct 20, 2001
| This route is not over-bolted like the rest of the routes at this area which makes it much more exciting. The bolts are at the places where they are needed. Someone went crazy with their drill at the Riviera (sport Park??). That aside, this route is worth climbing. |
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 5, 2002
| This is a great route. A few Aliens and a #1 Camalot make it quite reasonable for the competent leader. One of the best routes of its grade in the canyon. Footwork is key. |
By George Bell From: Boulder, CO Oct 28, 2003
| Fun route that definitely keeps you on your toes. Compared to TE, it looks way runout, but it is true the bolts are just where you need 'em. Leo's advice on gear is good, I managed to place 2 stoppers, 2 Aliens and the #1 Camalot (after the last bolt). The only place that is runout is after the first bolt, but it is surprisingly easy there. |
By ac Feb 28, 2005
| This route is as it should be. It is perfectly bolted. |
By Gary Schmidt From: Boulder, CO Dec 24, 2005
| In IMHO, the only 5.10 part was maybe one or two moves getting past the first bolt. After that smooth sailing. Still worth doing. |
By Aeon Aki Administrator Sep 21, 2006 rating: 5.10c/d PG13
| The slabby section after the second bolt felt nearly as difficult as Sea Breeze. |
By dbyte From: Carbondale, CO Jul 14, 2008 rating: 5.10d PG13
| Great old-school line w/ very thoughtful moves. I felt going direct between @ last 2 bolts to be the definite crux & 5.10d. |
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Bend, OR Oct 20, 2008 rating: 5.10b PG13
| Best climb on the wall IMO. Bolts and gear are where you need them. Small TCUs will get you to the first bolt. I placed an RP off left before getting to the 2nd bolt. And I placed a #2 Camalot as a directional for my second above the last bolt. 10b felt correct. |
By Brian Barenberg Jul 7, 2010
| The thin moves from the 2nd to 3rd bolt definitely make this a great 10b. Top roping from the anchors gives these crux moves a bit of a fun pendulum swing potential. |
By Paul Donald Andrews From: Nederland, Co. Jun 18, 2011
| Not the best route at the Riv. The latest guidebook downgrades it to 10a. Glad to see the majority agree this climb is 10b/c, maybe even d at the final bolt. 10a moves at the first bolt, then runout, easy to the second. I got in a couple of small pieces to protect the step out to reach the second bolt, then it's sustained 5 or 6 moves up to and past 3rd bolt. Tough clip hanging off a right hand crimp. Runout to the anchors was no problem. |
By Kevin Wieczorek Jun 14, 2012
| I think it's worth noting that the protection bolts are showing some wear. All three had significant rust, and the first had a loose hanger. You can top rope this route after climbing the 5.8 route to the left using the third bolt as a directional. |
By Eric Klammer From: Boulder, CO Apr 21, 2013 rating: 5.10b/c PG13
| Awesome route, one of the best at the Riviera! Be wary of the guidebook description though, "5.10a bolts and a few small pieces" leaves out quite a few details. The route is very run out in places, but this is over easy rock and makes the climb quite fun. The harder spots (more like 10b/c) are well protected. Why can't there be more like this in Boulder Canyon?? Had to laugh after looking over from the second bolt and seeing the guy on the next route over clipping bolt #6.... Load up the small gear for this climb, I didn't use anything larger than a yellow Alien and found a small brassie to be oh so nice when otherwise facing a possible groundfall clipping the second bolt. Enjoy!! |
By claramie From: Boulder, CO 6 days ago
| Climbed this route the other week. All bolts are very rusted (bolts, hangers are fine). I placed a single set of Aliens on the climb to mitigate the danger of a bolt failing. Hope someone replaces them sooner or later. |
By Tzilla Rapdrilla 6 days ago
| How rusted is "very rusted"? Some pics would help. I've replaced quite a few bolts & hangers lately and although they were rusted on the surface, the underside of the wedge bolt nut, or Rawl bolt were just fine. |
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