2014 Update: The U.S. Forest Service has reopened Eagle Rock and Security Risk climbing areas in Boulder Canyon which have been closed since Feb. 1 to protect golden eagles during their nesting season. Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress areas remain CLOSED.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This is the [fifth] route from the right. This route is just to the right of Topless Etiquette. It is interesting, because it's only got three bolts in about 60-70 feet of climbing. I think this gives the route its character. It's a really slabby route that requires good balance and footwork, and it's quite runout. There is deckout potential if you fell off of easy moves. The three bolts are at the only three places you really need them, and not everywhere in between, just for the sake of having a bolt every four feet. Be confident at the grade and style of climbing.
The crux comes at the second and third bolts, with sustained thin slab climbing up a right-facing corner.
You can toprope this route after leading Topless Etiquette to the higher anchor. Place a directional runner on the top bolt if you do this.
Three bolts plus small-to-medium gear. 2-bolt anchor.
This route is not over-bolted like the rest of the routes at this area which makes it much more exciting. The bolts are at the places where they are needed. Someone went crazy with their drill at the Riviera (sport Park??). That aside, this route is worth climbing.
By Leo Paik Administrator From: Westminster, Colorado Mar 5, 2002
This is a great route. A few Aliens and a #1 Camalot make it quite reasonable for the competent leader. One of the best routes of its grade in the canyon. Footwork is key.
Fun route that definitely keeps you on your toes. Compared to TE, it looks way runout, but it is true the bolts are just where you need 'em. Leo's advice on gear is good, I managed to place 2 stoppers, 2 Aliens and the #1 Camalot (after the last bolt). The only place that is runout is after the first bolt, but it is surprisingly easy there.
In IMHO, the only 5.10 part was maybe one or two moves getting past the first bolt. After that smooth sailing. Still worth doing.
By Aeon Aki Administrator Sep 21, 2006 rating: 5.10c/d6b+21VII+21E3 5b PG13
The slabby section after the second bolt felt nearly as difficult as Sea Breeze.
By dbyte From: Carbondale, CO Jul 14, 2008 rating: 5.10d6b+21VII+21E3 5b PG13
Great old-school line w/ very thoughtful moves. I felt going direct between @ last 2 bolts to be the definite crux & 5.10d.
By Andy Laakmann Site Landlord From: Bend, OR Oct 20, 2008 rating: 5.10b6a+19VII-19E2 5b PG13
Best climb on the wall IMO. Bolts and gear are where you need them. Small TCUs will get you to the first bolt. I placed an RP off left before getting to the 2nd bolt, and I placed a #2 Camalot as a directional for my second above the last bolt. 10b felt correct.
Not the best route at the Riv. The latest guidebook downgrades it to 10a. Glad to see the majority agree this climb is 10b/c, maybe even d at the final bolt. 10a moves at the first bolt, then runout, easy to the second. I got in a couple of small pieces to protect the step out to reach the second bolt, then it's sustained 5 or 6 moves up to and past 3rd bolt. Tough clip hanging off a right hand crimp. Runout to the anchors was no problem.
I think it's worth noting that the protection bolts are showing some wear. All three had significant rust, and the first had a loose hanger. You can top rope this route after climbing the 5.8 route to the left using the third bolt as a directional.
By Eric Klammer From: Boulder, CO Apr 21, 2013 rating: 5.10b/c6b20VII20E2 5b PG13
Awesome route, one of the best at the Riviera! Be wary of the guidebook description though, "5.10a bolts and a few small pieces" leaves out quite a few details. The route is very run out in places, but this is over easy rock and makes the climb quite fun. The harder spots (more like 10b/c) are well protected. Why can't there be more like this in Boulder Canyon?? Had to laugh after looking over from the second bolt and seeing the guy on the next route over clipping bolt #6....
Load up the small gear for this climb, I didn't use anything larger than a yellow Alien and found a small brassie to be oh so nice when otherwise facing a possible groundfall clipping the second bolt. Enjoy!!
Climbed this route the other week. All bolts are very rusted (bolts, hangers are fine). I placed a single set of Aliens on the climb to mitigate the danger of a bolt failing. Hope someone replaces them sooner or later.
How rusted is "very rusted"? Some pics would help. I've replaced quite a few bolts & hangers lately and although they were rusted on the surface, the underside of the wedge bolt nut, or Rawl bolt were just fine.