|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 285'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.4 French: 4a Ewbanks: 12 UIAA: IV ZA: 10 British: VD 3c [details]|
|FA:||Larry Griffin 1965|
|Submitted By:||vfv on Apr 13, 2010|
|Comments on Le Gourmet||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
Dec 28, 2014
|Some poor soul had to ditch a nice #2 omega link cam on pitch 1. I tried to work it out for about 15 minutes with no luck. Go get it!|
By Andrew G
Apr 20, 2015
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
|It seems like most parties skip the 2nd pitch in favor of Front C and the 4th pitch in favor of Critter Crack. Can't recommend both alternates (5.6) enough!|
From: Cincinnati, OH
Jul 26, 2015
|I agree with andrew, much more fun this way. Also pitch 3 confused me and outs kinda a joke|
May 23, 2016
|There is a loose basketball sized block on the last pitch about 20 feet from the top out on the flake. It's on the interior flake or the flake just to the left of the main right hand wall. From below it looks like a nice big horn on top of the flake. It moved quite easily when I grabbed it. I moved around it and tested it from above and it seems pretty free. If it released it would be bad news for anyone below, on critter crack, Old Man's ledge and countless routes below. I know not many people climb the last pitch of Le Gourmet (It's actually pretty fun, a great intro to trad lead and has a great top out) so it may not get a lot of hands on it. It might need to be trundled in a controlled manor unless it's somehow locked into that spot.|
Jun 7, 2016
A nice starting climb at Seneca. There is now two stuck cams on the first pitch. (none of them are mine) We opted not to do the second pitch as the protection is really sparse and the guide book agrees and mentions it. We did Front C 5.6 instead for the second pitch which was excellent and very fun! You should know that you are expected to scramble between the second and third pitch heading upward to the right and then when you get into a recessed notch, upward to the left behind a large wide flake and all the way to the very left side of the critter wall underneath the chimneys. I didn't know this and lead it making the whole climb more time consuming.
Also be advised that the guide book says nothing about what the anchor/belay station is at the top and where to go. If you stay somewhat in the chimney or just outside of it, you'll veer to the left a bit as you follow it and when you top out you'll see to the left a medium sized boulder at the top of and between two large section of flakes, like a two foot wide channel. That's the anchor. I choose not to use it as the anchor looked sketchy with carabiners that are triaxially loaded. I would have had to leave gear behind as you need a permanent anchor to rappel down that channel to get to the summit ledge.
I should have checked here to double check against the guide book, as I thought the boulder was someone's bail gear and climbed higher until I realized there was nothing and had to down climb and remove my protection as I went. I should have gone with my own intuition going straight up a short crack near the top as the chimneys veer left. It brings you into a large notch in the wall where you can create your anchor and top belay. Then it's a short scramble down the other side to the summit ledge. That's a much better way of doing the route, although there is a crux right near the notch that is probably 5.6 or 5.7. You can see this notch in the top right of Davis13au picture titled "Mike leading the blocky last pitch of Le Gourmet". You can also see a top down picture from the notch in BrendanCathcart's picture titled "Eric following the last pitch. Fun mix of chimney and crack." Both pictures show you how the chimneys veer left and a short crack goes straight up to the notch.
The loose rock is still there that Davis13au mentioned.