|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]|
|Submitted By:||Brian Adzima on Feb 8, 2007|
|Comments on Le Gourmet Direct||Add Comment|
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By Andy Weinmann
From: Alexandria, VA
Aug 1, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
|Be very careful on this route. There are some rather large loose blocks (more or less on the center line/left of center) that will eventually go and the base of Traffic Jam/Neck Press rappel is right there. Sketchy!|
Apr 23, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
There is a fair amount of loose rock on this route, even by Seneca standards. The best line is tricky to find and wanders across the right-facing corner. It DOES make the first two pitches of Le Gourmet into one pitch, but this is unlikely to save you much time.
Overall, it's somewhere between OK and Good. I wouldn't go out of my way to do it, but if you've exhausted the 5.6ish routes at Seneca, it's not a bad route to push your route-finding skills.
Photo credit: RESLScience 2012
May 18, 2015
I would say that while this is a good-to-very-good pitch, it is absolutely NOT a 5.6. So if you're looking for, say, a 5.7 challenge, get on it. The gear is decent, if varied and challenging at times. (I was working hard to sew it up but my second said everything was bomber) The climbing was "thoughtful", and that's good for the lead head once in a while I suppose. Bottom line - I'm really glad I did it.
Calling this a 5.6 helps substantiate Seneca's rep for sandbag grading. My home crag is the Gunks, so that's saying something!
I didn't know what to make of the comment in the guidebook about going right of the first tree etc. What WAS very helpful was the bit about getting into the short chimney high up in the pitch; I wasn't clear on which way to go at that point.