Le cote obscur de la force
WI4 M6 PG13
||Trad, TR, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 100'
|Consensus: ||WI4 M6+ [details]|
|FA: ||Yan Mongrain, Souren Beylerian, Jan 2005|
|Page Views: ||188|
|Submitted By: ||Luc on Mar 10, 2014|
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There's a few good blade jams on the way up, as well as a lot of crappy/useless ones.
Find your way up the corner, stemming when you can and just grunting it.
Be careful of the hanging ice, the ice in this area is generally brittle and a little push can snap off some big chunks.
I advise to rap down to scope out the pro (a few pieces are hidden from below) and clean out some dangerous daggers.
The obvious overhanging corner
Trad pro, nuts and cams, didn't see gear over 1.5"
3-4 screws for the exit/top.
Rap from the top, 70m rope is fine.
BETA PHOTO: Pat trying to find a way.
From: Montreal, Quebec
Mar 10, 2014
rating: WI4-5 M6+ PG13
In the condition that I did it the ice was wi4 but in the guide book it says wi5+ which suggests that maybe we had fat ice. Biggest cam I used was .75 c4. It may accept a #1c4. There is some hidden gear [.4c4] on the high right that may be impossible to see if your not in the right stance.
Small to medium gear.