Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
This is an excellent pitch that links genesis and cest la vie via a long diagonal rightward traverse. Begin with Genesis, and climb up into the apex of the roof about forty feet up (you do the .10c crack portion of Genesis). Climb out through the apex of this roof (instead of stepping left) and up into a thirty foot strenuous hand traverse protected by 4 bolts and a fixed copperhead. The traverse ends at the belay below the 5.11 pitch of C'est la Vie. There is a powerful .11 move after the first bolt, and a definite crux involving classic Eldo deviousness after the second bolt, some low .10 remains to the belay. Good climbing on great rock.
You'll need a few nuts and smaller cams for the beginning, otherwise the upper part is well protected on bolts and pins.
Pro: Largely protected by fixed gear (pins and good bolts), but some trad gear is required on the lower section. Bring stoppers, Aliens blue through red, one #3 or #2 Camalot can be placed low on the route. At least 10 draws and slings. Details:No, I've not redpointed this route or even led it, but I got dragged up it this morning by Bill Briggs and thought it was a worthy addition to this site.
The route starts with the first half of the first pitch of Genesis. Climb the corner system to the twin pins and then follow the seam up and strongly right to the base of the crux pitch of C'est La Vie. The climbing along the seam is protected by good bolts and one fixed "thing."
We stepped left to the good rest on Genesis at the two pins and then went back right to complete the route. It is hard to reverse this move, but not that hard. It is worth it for the rest, I think.
This climb is classic Eldo. It is not that steep - less than vertical - but the holds are very marginal and technical. Good footwork (I wish I had it) is the key. The moves are interesting and hard. The climbing is fairly well protected.
I had the pleasure of following Derek up this route and was blown away to see him soloing it a few days later. He also used to solo pitch one of Say La Vee a bunch and would traverse out to the arete to the right of the dihederal(about 5.8 or so) and follow it up past the dihederal anchor to easier ground.
If you want to do the second pitch of C'est La Vie, this is a fantastic option instead of the normal first pitch. Thin and strenuous crux on marginal feet, very fun.
By adam brink From: Boulder, CO Mar 17, 2003 rating: 5.11+7a24VIII24E4 6a
While this is a brillant route and definately worth doing, 5.11d seems a bit generous. It seemed no where near as hard as Raccoon Soup (11d), miles easier than Fire and Ice (11d/12a), and even easier than the second pitch of Ces't la Vie (11c). All that aside, it was a great combination of some funky overhanging crack climbing and great techinal slab climbing. You got to love Eldo!
I feel a bit silly commented on the difficulty of a route so hard, but since I've climbed this (only seconding) and done C'est La Vie (leading), I'll give my two cents. C'est La Vie is a very hard five-foot boulder problem. Really. The climbing above and below this 5-foot section is 5.9 at worst. This route (Le Boomerang) climbs up through what I consider the crux of the first pitch of Genesis (11a) and directly into sustained slab climbing of which I think there are at least two sections as hard as the crux on C'est La Vie. I can't compare it to other routes Adam mentioned though. Clearly I need to learn better footwork, but this is a cool route.
Yesterday Josh Janes led me up this route, our first time on it. We both hung multiple times. At the 2nd or 3rd bolt (I forget) we both traversed a ways right and down a bit, then diagonalled left back to the edge of the slab. This was hard 10 or 11a--much easier than following the seam where the slab meets the steep wall above.
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 31, 2004 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
The grade seemed more or less right, but I'm a whip on slabs, so it could have been generous, I can't be sure.
Note on gear. The fixed head by the 3rd bolt is up in the crack, which is above the line of bolts. If you clip it with the same length of draws as you clip the bolts, it goes out of the straight line. If you lower off or if your second falls, this puts a great deal of stress on that head, although it is not directly loaded. The cable is bent downward across a relatively sharp edge and is kinked and a few of the wires in it are already snapped.
Although I am relatively sure that the piece would still hold a lead fall (unlikely here, should you have made it this far), I think the tension previously described will kill it surely, over time. Please consider taking up a 2-foot-long sling for the fixed head.
By Joseph P. Crotty From: Broomfield, CO Jun 15, 2006 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
An Eldo classic with great pro and movement varying from power to sequential ballet. Probably much harder in hot temps and/or very humid days. I would be in favor of the CopperHead being removed as it is unnecessary tat.
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Jun 20, 2006 rating: 5.11d7a24VIII25E5 6a
This one's a total classic. I've looked up in awe at this route for a few years now wondering if I would ever reach the level to climb it. Joe's comment above is right on. Power and ballet... I think the crux can be done in two different ways. You basically just have to figure out how to get your feet up on the narrow slippery sloped ramp from the good stance. I also agree that the fixed copperhead is just unnecessary tat. Four stars!
Sweet Pitch !! Got beat down the first try and went back the following day to give it another go. Whittled it down to 1 fall. For me the crux is the moves past the first bolt. Getting out of the a-frame roof is pumpy and by the time I clip that 1st bolt, my arms are flaming!! The rest is not that bad just really delicate face traverse.
IMO C'est La Vie is much easier than this (Led that as a second pitch ). It's just a couple of hard moves to easy climbing, whereas this is rather sustained, from the .10 layback on Genesis all the way through the 2nd bolt on Boomerang. My $.02
BTW the fixed copperhead was gone when I was up there. It's not hard but kinda scary making the last moves with the previous bolt a ways behind ou!!
This is great climbing but I'm not sure you can call it an Eldo classic. It's a frickin' bolt route!!! Skip the bolts and protect it with RPs and THEN it would be an Eldo Classic.
If you're looking for an Eldo Classic in the hood, lead Pansee Sauvage.
Now THAT's an Eldo Classic. Mal
By Wayne Crill From: an Altered State May 13, 2008 rating: 5.11c6c+24VIII-24E4 6a
I agree Mal, this is a very good line but not quite "Eldo classic" quality, However, . . . ahem, by your criterion Pansee Sauvage could not possibly be an Eldo classic either since "it's a frickin' bolt route!!!"
But it too is very good!
paz y amor
By Jeff G. From: Fort Collins Feb 4, 2013 rating: 5.11+7a24VIII24E4 6a
This pitch is incredible! Powerful moves through the roof and getting to the second bolt then it becomes very much about technique and footwork. Wonderful Eldo rock and climbing. Only bolts on the traverse, no tat or fixed copperheads, and it seemed very well protected. The bolts are perfectly placed. Look for a no hands rest at the second bolt just prior to initiating the balancy crux moves.