|The Tan Buttresses
This is a very pleasant, well-protected route. It is definitely the best of the easier routes in the Black Wall Cirque. A few more ascents should make it very clean and enjoyable.
1) Climb the pillar, stepping right at its top and climb up a steep, water featured ramp, ending on its left side after about 115 feet below a steep handcrack in a right facing corner. 5.8.
2) Pull into the corner, and climb it until it ends in a ledgy section. Veer up and left and belay below a roof and a compact looking dihedral after about 100 feet. 5.10-.
3) Climb up the dihedral, passing delightfully featured rock to the roof. Head right under the roof until it is possible to follow a flake with a handcrack behind it up and left. Belay by a couple of spikes at the top of this flake after about 100 feet. There is a wide flare above and to the left of this belay. 5.10-.
4) Step right and climb a steep flake to a good horizontal cam placement. Trend back left to the top of the flare and exit onto a small grassy ledge. Continue up nebulous terrain to a much larger grassy ledge. Walk left a few feet and belay below the fourth pitch of Anniversary Route. 5.9.
5) Climb a few feet up the shallow corner until it ends and it is possible to step right into a large flake. Follow this flake up and right to the arete. Follow the arete to another large grassy ledge. 5.9.
6) Climb the excellent steep hand and fist crack on the right side of the next wall to the top. This pitch is shared with the Anniversary Route as well.
Start in the same place as the Gimp Route and the Anniversary Route - at a pillr of broken rock on the right side of the first Tan Buttress.
Some nuts an a single set of cams to 4 inches should suffice. Perhaps a second midsize piece might be nice.
Josh on the ramp of pitch 1.
Josh in the right-facing dihedral of pitch 2.
Doug and Byron at the start.
Josh traversing right on pitch 3 to get to the fla...
Josh in the last pitch hand and fist crack.
Doug and Byron topping out.
Ben Collett and Josth Finklestein on the first asc...
BETA PHOTO: In this photo, P1-4, Lazy Sunday. Byron Murray at...
Doug and Byron on P3, taken from Dog Fight.
Doug and Byron P4, taken from Dog Fight.
Moving up the dihedral to the roof of pitch three....
Jul 17, 2011
This route was a blast! Thanks, Ben. Nuff respek to the Tan Buttresses.
|By Andy Hansen|
From: Longmont, Colorado
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
This route was a good climb. However, I think the crux pitch is a little harder than 10a... closer to 10b in my opinion. Overall the pitches are pretty great save for the 4th pitch- very dirty and the pro is somewhat sparse.
|By Dougald MacDonald|
Jun 27, 2013
Very fun half-day route. I recommend doing the second and third pitches short, stopping on good ledges after each 5.10a crux (top of the steep corner on the second, and right after the roof traverse on the third). That way you can watch the second and drop a loop of the lead rope to haul a pack if your second is toting a load. Run the fourth up to the big grass ledge (still not a very long pitch), and then take it to the top on the fifth. Flows really well this way.
|By Kevin Gillest|
From: Arvada, CO
Jul 22, 2013
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
Great moderate alpine climbing.
P1, 5.8, 120 ft slightly challenging to find starting point.
P2, 10a, 100 ft hand crack to grassy ledge.
| || P2 Lazy Sunday. |
P3, 10a, 120 ft shallow corner under roof, right traverse, up to grassy ledge.
| || P3 Lazy Sunday. |
P4, 10b, 100 ft step left from belay, climb steep flake/finger crack, not sure if this was part of the original route? Ending on grassy ledge.
| || P4 Lazy Sunday. |
P5, 10b, 80 ft, left-facing dihedral, climb crack system left of corner to top out, not sure this was part of the original route?
| || P5 Lazy Sunday. |