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|Type: ||Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700 feet, Grade III|
|Consensus: ||5.10b [details]|
|FA: ||Trevor Bowman and Bryan Schmitz 9/2/07|
|Season: ||late June through mid September|
|Submitted By: ||Trevor Bowman on Nov 29, 2007|
Bryan on the 5th pitch.
This route offers excellent stone similar to Dem Bones, but with less sustained hard climbing.
P1-Climb the thin crack splitting this clean face making use of abundant faceholds. When the crack turns burly about 50' up, make a cruxy (and rather spicy) traverse left to a blunt arete which is delicately climbed to a small ledge (alternative belay possible here). Crank up some short cracks into a cool stembox/chimney with a perfect finger crack in the back. Use all 70m to reach a spacious belay ledge. A stellar pitch! 5.10b, 225'
P2-Face climb up a slab to the right of a vegetated crack into a nice right-facing dihedral and up to the huge midway ledge which bisects the entire buttress. 5.8, 100'
P3-Ramble up the obvious large, right-facing corner with a hand-fistcrack to the end of the rope on small ledges. 5.6, 225'
P4-A moderate crack up nice white rock to the ledges beneath the final headwall of brown rock (with the crux handcrack on Dem Bones). 5.4, 70'
P5-Climb the splintered arete which forms the left margin of the Dem Bones headwall. Disjointed cracks and one tough bulge. There are a couple loose blocks to be wary of. 5.10a, 80'
Begins about 100' left of Dem Bones (see route description here or in Climbers Guide to the Teton Range) on a clean, well-featured face split by a thin crack. This face is sandwiched between two dihedral systems.
Single set of stoppers suffices, although double medium sizes are nice. Double set of cams through 1", singles of #2 and #3. 70M rope very handy, though not necessary.
Route overview with belays marked. Photo taken fro...
Trevor starting up the gorgeous first pitch.
The cruxy traverse to the rib on pitch 1.
The clean hand/fist corner of pitch 3.