|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 450', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|Submitted By:||Brian in SLC on Apr 9, 2007|
|Comments on Lazarus||Add Comment|
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Jun 15, 2007
|Nothing new here. This route is in the old blue guide by Ellison and Smoot.|
By Brian in SLC
Jun 18, 2007
The picture of it in Green and Turville's "Desperate Grace" kept me from wanting to do it for years.
I think its also mentioned in Smith's Wasatch Granite guidebook as well.
Any clue on the FA?
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Nov 8, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
|This route would merit more stars if you didn't have to climb the chimney pitch of the Great Chockstone. There isn't anything great about that chimney. Pulling out of the crux traverse is thrilling, to say the least. Rope drag can be minimized by climbing the 5.10 crack just above the crux instead of the easier crack on the left. However, there is a detached section of rock at the edge of the crack that convinced me to endure the rope drag to the left. The last two pitches can be linked together. The final pitch has a 30 foot runout (unless you clip one of the bolts of Final Link) as there isn't really a crack or seam at all, just a hairline fracture with a slight groove. There is a blind placement just before the final belay bush that finishes the runout section. This is just as scary for the second as it is for the leader, and the name Lazarus was probably appropriate for the need to be raised from the dead if you blow it on this pitch. This was first climbed before Final Link was bolted. You can continue up a crack above the final belay bush to some slings that provide a handy rappel exit to the base of the Coffin.|
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
May 3, 2012
|You really want to do the 10 variation straight up to avoid the rope drag even though it sucks too! You can get a pretty bomber (whip tested!) yellow alien behind the crumbly little hand arch and make sure to save a .75 camalot for the top-out or you will be crying like I was! :) The recommended last pitch is to head up the right facing corner and then link to the last 2 bolts of the Final Link. If you want to finish the climb without using the bolts either stay on the left side of the Final Link slab or traverse across it (R) and find a way down into the Coffin gulley (years ago there were slings to do this).|