Layback 

I've found that a #3.5 Camalot (no longer made) or a #4 Camalot is very helpful on the opening moves of the layback section. You can't place it from the good stance below the crux, but you take a step or two up (before being completely committed) and there's a good constriction. My #4 caught a friend's lead fall in that spot.

I thoroughly enjoyed the second pitch, excellent exposed climbing with good pro. Consider it a well-deserved reward after the unpleasant grunting that's necessary to get through the first pitch.

P1 is a good, interesting challenge for the 5.5 leader. Chimney can be avoided by bouldery (spot), 5.7+ start up nose/face to left of the chimney. P2 (5.3/G) is awesome for a beginning leader; beautiful rock, great exposure and a fantastic photo op.

Ummm...I don't think I would put a beginning 5.5 leader on this climb. We did the unprotected bouldery start and it was a LONG way up before hitting the pin. I didn't try the chimney, it was green and slimy. Either way p1 is committing for a 5.5 leader.

Gail --- Didn't mean to imply P1 is for a new 5.5 leader. Indicated it would be a challenge for a 5.5 leader. P2 I do believe is a great pitch for a beginning leader. Good gear and a lot of bang for your buck in terms of the quality of the climbing and the exposure. --- bill

The opening chimney is an awkward gruntfest, even after 5 or 6 sends of this route; but with a good spot it's safe, and you can get a #2 camalot to protect well on either side of the chockstone. Recommend a #4 to protect the start of the layback unless you're very confident (it is a cruiser, but there's no gear till the layback's over). You can funk in medium nut below the #4, but it's questionable IMO.

Did this weeks ago. Climbed the face right of the chimney to a small roof and piton, then traversed right to join Layback at the top of the chimney. Face climb was stiff (was told 5.8-ish) but I dislike (crappy) chimneys more than sweating a little extra at the start of a climb. The rest of the route was enjoyable. I though the layback was stiffer than 5.5. Very sustained. The second pitch was fun, the traverse/exposure seems to be a repeating them on this side of the road (ie - Disneyland).

I second (fourth?) all the comments about the big gear. You'll definitely find spots where you'll be relieved to have it.

I climbed this on memorial day, and it was pretty moist in the chimney--I hope to try running up the face as an alternative next time, since that chimney seems difficult to climb gracefully! The layback section above is all there, but much trickier without some wide gear, as has been mentioned here. I found myself up a creek without a #3 or 4 Camalot, and there was some definite pucker factor. If you are long enough to cheat out to the left of the crack, it is possible to get a nut (and/or) a black alien-sized piece that will offer some protection through the layback. P2 is the gravy though--superb views and fun moves and a nice BIG belay ledge!

Great climb. The second pitch is not a 5.1 IMO more like a 5.3, it has an exposed finish that seems a little steep for the lower rating. I've managed, and felt fine, with a standard rack up to a #3 cam. I can't recall how I placed the pieces specifically, a larger would have been nice but not a requirement.

A number 4 C4 will protect the opening sequence of the layback (my climber was also able toplace a red C3) but once you are into it is hard to place gear and the gear appears to be in the number 5 range. If you unable to place gear after the start of the layback then it is very run out in my opinion.

#4 for the start of the offwidth felt like a key placement to prevent it from being pretty runout. Initial chimney was really awkward for me. Definitely a tough lead for 5.5. Second pitch is airy and worth doing. Probably about 5.3. Probably could link the pitches up if careful.

Quite a lot going on. I enjoyed the chimney a lot more the second time around. Lots of variety and techniques to get up this line as a whole. Climb it as one pitch to appreciate the shifting of gears. Some giant loose stone (easily avoided) on the traverse after the layback section.

Directions to Layback (very detailed for first-time visitors):
First follow the directions from the Parking to "Disneyland" (see in the Comments under Disneyland).

Then continue going SSW along the base of the cliff. After about 50 feet, reach a narrow passage between the cliff and a rock. The cliff at that point is a narrow ridge with a crack in it ("Inverted Layback").

About 12 feet left of that is chimney 1.5 to 2 feet wide with a chockstone -- the "official" start of Layback.
(Above it starting about 30 feet off the ground is a wide corner formed by a flake on the right and a face on left).