Layback Crack 

First pitch is a great lead for first timers. Takes nuts way better than cams, but that makes it more fun.

My first trad lead, I believe. Fun route, well worth stopping for even if it is only a 5.5.

I second the notion that it takes nuts better than cams, I think I used maybe two #1's just for practice. This was my second trad lead and it does have bolted anchors which I don't think the wasatch guide book states.

I believe that the anchor chains at the top are newer than the guide book.

The route description doesn't mention it, but since the upper pitch is much dirtier and less fun than the lower pitch, a more rewarding way to finish is to walk from the chains at the top of the first pitch of Layback Crack south along a wide ledge to the base of Nice Little Crack and Storm Mountain Stupor, either of which is a much more enjoyable second pitch.

This was my first all-gear climb, plenty of spots for gear and resting, and quite fun.

Walts super on... Do the traverse around from the belay spot on pitch 1. Takes good gear as well if your second is scared. Set up an anchor on the solo climbing bolts/rap bolts. Then do nice little crack or storm mountain stupor.

We did this to avoid the beginning hike over to the slips. Nice alternative.

I only placed 1 nut this time around :)

Very fun!

There are a couple of tough-to-spot bolt w/ hangers (no chains - bring some webbing and a rap ring) at the very top of the 'island' to rap down (a bit to the right of the last pitch if I recall...goes through bushes though).

I thought this was an excellent climb, and would recommend both pitches for beginning trad climbers. The second pitch was not difficult, but still interesting and very worth the time and effort. At the start of the second pitch I tried to go right, but did not find good pro in the dihedral. I backtracked and climbed straight up from the belay for 10-15 feet before returning to the dihedral. Taking this approach has the added benefit of limiting rope drag. At the top of the second pitch, I climbed past the chains and set up a belay using the bush and a few pieces of pro. Walked off. Cams above BD #2 not needed.

Fun climb. We skipped the second set of bolts and walked off the back. There is a trail that brings you down by the amphitheater.

Chill. I have put 5 or 6 beginner leaders on this route, and they all loved it. Chill climbing, great pro.

New trad leader here. This was a fun lead for me, because it was fun to push through the scare and make it to the top of the first pitch. The rest of the pitches were much easier.

I guess I need to practice placing nuts more, because I felt like the crack took cams better than nuts. I even placed a #3 camalot where it might have been better for a #4, if I had one. I only placed one nut.

It's worth mentioning that you have to be careful at the top of the first pitch to keep the rope from getting stuck in a rope squeezing crack. A directional may have been a good idea.

I really like climbing to the top of things, so I'm going to recommend doing both pitches and a final pitch to the top to do the walk-off. It just seems like more of an accomplishment that way!

Lastly, I'm rating this at 5.6, because there are so many 5.5s that I think are way easier than this climb. For example, all of the West slabs is easier than this climb, I think. Perhaps it is because the climb, for me at least, commits you to some lie-backing that must be done to pass certain sections. There are those that can probably do the whole thing as a face climb, but not me.

Really fun little route!

We found a Geo-Cash at the top of this route

If you do P2, go through the roofs. Adds some fun, but no harder than 5.7