Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Warmup Boulders (AKA Brett & Jill boulders) South Side
Select Route:
Layback arete 
Slab left 
Slab left-center 
Slab right 
Slab right-center 
Unknown Corner Route 

Layback arete 

Hueco: V1 Font: 5

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V1 Font: 5 [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 771
Submitted By: Dave Wachter on Feb 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
A very popular line. Get there early, as a queue t...

Description 

Climber does a layback on the north side of the arete, with fingertips wrapped around the south side. Continue to the top, then mantle up. Can step off onto the boulder behind the fin if you lose nerve. Difficult to pad this problem.
This is a GREAT warmup, and one of the few problems at U-mound with truly juggy holds and an opportunity to warm up your arms without tweaking tendons.

Location 

The sharp arete on the west (ABQ-facing) edge of the fin.

Protection 

Pads and spotters are of little help. Not a great problem for you if you're shaky on V1.


Photos of Layback arete Slideshow Add Photo
Oh yeah, now I remember why I love climbing...
Oh yeah, now I remember why I love climbing...

Comments on Layback arete Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dave Wachter
Feb 6, 2012

As of the beginning of Feb 2012 the finishing jug on this problem has been smashed off. There was a big smooth light-colored rock weighing about 7 or 8 lb lying just beneath the destruction, which made it pretty clear that someone had defaced it (didn't look like it had simply been pulled off by someone yarding on it). I also noticed at about the same time that a hold on the corridor problem had been broken. Both of the broken holds were at a level easily reached by someone standing on a boulder next to the problem and hitting them with a rock.
Good to see that the ABQ delinquents are getting out and enjoying the great outdoors! Assholes.