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Layaway Plan 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 7,768
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Oct 1, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (67)
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John Daly on Layaway Plan (IC 5.11d) takes a break...

Description 

This is an awesome tight hands, right-facing, varnished corner. It is immediately right of the obvious Serrator Crack, and 100 yards left of Way Rambo.

Climb a short wide section to a rest ledge, fire up to a second rest before a bulge, through the bulge up into the roof. Undercling or jam the roof for 12 feet, turn the corner and fire up to the anchors.

Awesome!

Protection 

Camalots:
1 ea. 0.4
1 ea. 0.75
6 ea. #1
2 ea. #2
1 ea. #3


Photos of Layaway Plan Slideshow Add Photo
Niall Horton cranking hard and fighting the pump o...
Niall Horton cranking hard and fighting the pump o...
Preparing for the beat down compliments of the roo...
Preparing for the beat down compliments of the roo...
Lizzy nearing the crux of the Layaway Plan. Photo ...
Lizzy nearing the crux of the Layaway Plan. Photo ...
Undercling out the roof.  Only two spots opened up...
Undercling out the roof. Only two spots opened up...
Great rest about 1/3 of the way up the corner.
Great rest about 1/3 of the way up the corner.
This is me doing the Layway Plan on Layaway Plan. ...
This is me doing the Layway Plan on Layaway Plan. ...
Rest before the crux.
Rest before the crux.
This is where I had to start layin' back.  It's ab...
This is where I had to start layin' back. It's ab...
Trying to clean the fine sand off the wall before ...
Trying to clean the fine sand off the wall before ...
avoiding the plan
avoiding the plan
Layaway Plan as you aproach it from around the cor...
BETA PHOTO: Layaway Plan as you aproach it from around the cor...
copping a stem and refueling before the roof.
copping a stem and refueling before the roof.
Taken in 11/04, this photo shows the damage to sof...
BETA PHOTO: Taken in 11/04, this photo shows the damage to sof...

Comments on Layaway Plan Add Comment
Show which comments
By SirVato
From: Boulder
May 12, 2006

This is an awesome corner. I tried jamming most of the way to the roof but ended up in the "Layaway plan". There are some good rests. So you don't have to just chug the whole way.
By Brian Weinstein
Sep 23, 2006
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

A #2 fits perfectly at the lip of the roof, although that is the only goldie I placed. This is a striking route with three stained lines on the wingate just to the left.
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Oct 6, 2006

If you place a piece at the lip of the roof, it is very likley that, when you clip into the anchors and weight the rope, the rope will push the piece at the roof WAY up into the crack. I did this, and just barely got my gold camalot back out.

I suppose that the best way to avoid this would be to runner the lip piece, and then just make sure that the rope is out of the crack before you weight it.
By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Mar 13, 2007

3/13/07, my friend Kevin replaced the anchors on this route. Much needed; it's incredible that so many folks have climbed and TR'd on the formerly mank anchors.
By Chris Strouthopoulos
From: Durango, Co
Nov 16, 2007

Follow the above advice about not putting in a cam above the lip of the roof. I was super pumped by the time I got there and fired one in a few feet above the lip on the vertical section. It's still there, a good 3 feet into the crack (we couldn't even get to it with a v-threader that a buddy happened to have in his pack). Don't make my mistake. Although it's a bit run out, keep firing to the anchor.

SUPERB line. Highly recommended.
By Jared Spaulding
From: Central WY
May 15, 2008

Camhead, thank your friend Kevin for anchor replacement. I was excited to see them recently as I was expecting the old rat nest. I too, found that by using short quickdraws on all my pieces under the roof I was able to avoid having my rope smash the cams deep into the abyss, thus making any runout unnecessary. Awesome line.
By A. Wolaver
From: Golden, CO
Nov 26, 2010
rating: 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

This route is simply georgous and relatively unviolated. The best strategy for keeping all you cams is to place a great #1 camelot at the rest in the beginning of the roof then chug to the anchors.