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Louisville Swamp Boulder (S/W Twin Cities Metro, near Shakopee)
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V1-

   
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Type: Boulder, 11 feet
Consensus: V0-1 [details]
FA: ?
Submitted By: Nathan Migdal on Jun 28, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Route follows the right arete to top jug.

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Description 

This short, powerful problem is fun and pretty addictive. Begin in front of the jagged splitter crack on the Big Rock's north-facing side (toward the swamp). This climb goes up the right-side arete. Use the obvious flat jug on the base of the arete as a sit start hold. Your 1st left foot is across the crack/gap and the 1st right foot is on the face you'll be climbing. For this route to be a V1 layback, use only the left edge of the arete for hands while keeping feet solely on the main boulder face off of arete/corner holds. Arete footholds while temping here, can throw your balance off and toss you into a set of jagged offwidth jaws. Ouch. Flagging a foot across the gap can be helpful at times though. After pulling through a pinchy sit start sequence, the layback begins, making for solid, almost relaxed climbing up the boulder's side to a great topout hold - ends on a flat jug near the top. Enjoy!


Location 

North Side of the big glacial boulder.


Protection 

One pad should do it. A spotter won't hurt your chances either.



Photos of Lay-Z-Boy Slideshow Add Photo
working through the starting moves

working through the starting moves

entering full-tilt layback mode

entering full-tilt layback mode