Climb up dicey slab to clip the first bolt from the right, then shift left. Strange and wonderous movement pulls through the steepness. The challenges don't end just yet, though nothing is quite so tricky afterward. Still, the line of bolts is greatly appreciated and at times their separation unpleasant until the last is passed and the climbing really does settle down.
Were the entire 90' like the first 25, this would be a masterpiece of friction and technical skill.
On the steep slab between Glee Club Crack and Belle Bottom Crack, about 12' right of the former route's start and 20' left of the latter's, below a shallow, subtle scoop in the steepest part of the slab. Look for the bolts.
4 QDs and a #2 C4.
From: Lake George, NY
Jul 28, 2012
more like "Poor, Poor, Pitiful Me" when trying to figure out the crux!!
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: Upstate New York
Aug 25, 2012
If the whole thing was as tough as the beginning very few people in the entire climbing world would be able to ever onsight it. Great technical climb. I learned a lot from it.
|By A Freeman|
Sep 1, 2012
TR'd this route first. Then led it! Awesome route, while the crux is challenging, the next few series of moves and bolt clips keeps this route sustained in difficulty as a challenging face climb. I highly recommend it!!! I'd give it 3+ stars and 5.10c rating at least due to the numerous 5.10 moves in a row. I think this climb will grow in stars and popularity. Any climber with the skills regardless of reach can find their spot and send!!