Lawyers, Guns, and Money 5.10b/c PG13
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10b/c [details] |
| FA: | July 2012 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | April - November |
| Submitted By: | Jay Harrison on Jul 27, 2012 |
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Slab moves on the FA.
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Description Climb up dicey slab to clip the first bolt from the right, then shift left. Strange and wonderous movement pulls through the steepness. The challenges don't end just yet, though nothing is quite so tricky afterward. Still, the line of bolts is greatly appreciated and at times their separation unpleasant until the last is passed and the climbing really does settle down.
Were the entire 90' like the first 25, this would be a masterpiece of friction and technical skill.
Location On the steep slab between Glee Club Crack and Belle Bottom Crack, about 12' right of the former route's start and 20' left of the latter's, below a shallow, subtle scoop in the steepest part of the slab. Look for the bolts.
Protection 4 QDs and a #2 C4.
| Comments on Lawyers, Guns, and Money |
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By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Jul 28, 2012
| more like "Poor, Poor, Pitiful Me" when trying to figure out the crux!! |
By Kevin Heckeler
From: West Sand Lake, New York
Aug 25, 2012
| If the whole thing was as tough as the beginning very few people in the entire climbing world would be able to ever onsight it. Great technical climb. I learned a lot from it. |
By A Freeman
Sep 1, 2012
| TR'd this route first. Then led it! Awesome route, while the crux is challenging, the next few series of moves and bolt clips keeps this route sustained in difficulty as a challenging face climb. I highly recommend it!!! I'd give it 3+ stars and 5.10c rating at least due to the numerous 5.10 moves in a row. I think this climb will grow in stars and popularity. Any climber with the skills regardless of reach can find their spot and send!! |
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