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This route starts on the face just beneath a large, right-facing flake/chimney near the east (right) side of the dome. The guidebook says to start left of a pillar and climb the white vein, but all I remember is pulling on funky not-so-trustworthy holds up the steep face to the base of the chimney, then climbing mostly crystals just right of the chimney and using an occasional stem or chimney move until I got to the 2-bolt anchor. Both my partner and I fell unexpectedly because of broken holds, he at the bottom half and I near the top, but once it's cleaned up it'll be a really cool route. We rappeled from the anchor, but one could continue up the next pitch (5.6) to the belay shared with "Dick Van Dike".
Less than 10 quickdraws. 14 if you do it in 1 pitch.
Nice climbing. Seems to have cleaned up, but stil...
|By Mike Dallin|
Aug 14, 2002
Definitely a fun route. With a bit of hunting you can find reasonable alternatives to the loosest flakes and holds. Once in the chimney the route runs it out a bit - don't blow it at the anchors or you're in for a big fall into a bone-crunching chimney! Luckily this stretch is easy ground, but if a bit of exposure makes you nervous best not lead this one. Enjoy the ferns in the chimney, and the view of the Hallett Peak area from the top!