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Lookout Point
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A Group of Mysteries of Frenchwoman T 
A Hatch T 
A Ship Called Black Rock T 
An Act of Strange Boar T 
And Say T 
Baby Tapir T,S 
Below Lissen T 
Bobcat Cringe T 
Bowling to Biscuits T 
He is Truly a Great Airplane T 
House of the 7th Bobcat T 
Law and Order T 
Peanuts To Serve You T 
Purple Kool-Aid T 
Rice Krispies T 
Solitude T 
Steel Pulse T 
Velvet Pedestal, The T 

Law and Order 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Kelley & Matt Arksey
Page Views: 2,252
Submitted By: Jon Nelson on Apr 22, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Josh climbing into the flare groove at the top of ...

2016 Seasonal Raptor Closure on the Diamond MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Long corner system to the right of Rice Krispies and Spit.

Pitch 1 starts with face climbing on large holds (~20', and in need of cleaning as of 4/2012). Then one enters an incut, bolt-protected, right-leaning corner (~9+/10a). See the bottom red arrow in the picture. About 30' up the corner, the corner system splits into two. The original route went up the shallower left corner (~5.9) (next red arrow), which then traversed back into the right corner at a bolt (5.10) (see 3rd red arrow in photo). But staying in the right corner (green arrow) gives fun 5.9+ climbing, a mixture of face-climbing and thin jams. Where the two variations merge, the climbing goes up a slot with excellent pinch-grips on the rib (~5.8+). The pitch ends on the top of the pedestal, and has 3 bolts with chains.

Pitch 2 goes up the next corner on the left. It looks like a great corner, but as of July 10, 2012, it is a bit dirty and hard to protect. But you can instead do the pitch to the right, "A Ship Called Black Rock". See the separate description for this pitch.

The first pitch anchor is about 20' right of that for A group of mysteries of frenchwoman. With a short belay, one can move the anchor to toprope one or the other. To rap off with one rope, you might need to go to the Frenchwoman anchor and rap to the strange boar anchor. From the strange boar anchor, you can rap to the ground with one 60-m rope.

Location 

On the Lookout Point trail, continue about 40 feet past Baby tapir, Strange boar, and Rice krispies.

Protection 

Nut and cams to 2", 5-6 quickdraws for bolts.

If you stay to the right (the easier way), you clip 5 bolts at the bottom, and have the option of clipping 2 more up higher, though one is an old 1/4" next to a crack. If you go left, for the harder variation, you will clip one other bolt at the crux.


Photos of Law and Order Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The red line and arrows show the original route (1...
BETA PHOTO: The red line and arrows show the original route (1...
Rock Climbing Photo: Josh climbing through the crux
Josh climbing through the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: The perfect layback section of Law and Order. (The...
BETA PHOTO: The perfect layback section of Law and Order. (The...
Rock Climbing Photo: left variation. so sweet.
left variation. so sweet.

Comments on Law and Order Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 30, 2016
By derekpearson
Jul 11, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

1- 0 metolius
2- .3 BD cam
1- .4 BD
1- .5 BD
1- 1 BD
1- #6 BD nut

I sling all the pro on two foot slings and clip six bolts with draws . The fifth bolt I use a double runner . Some might think the crux is after the fifth bolt.
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Jul 28, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Green variation bass offset, though bolt would be perfect! Very fun route
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Nov 6, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a great route. I had eyed it for a while, but was intimidated by the old books description. It is cleaner now, and the run-out has been bolted. At the Y in the road I went right. Lots of brambles, but good climbing. Small cams, brass nut, and then happy to clip the new bolt for the left variation. Above the climbing gets easier. I cleaned out the upper seam and found good blue alien placements.
There is a single bolt above and left of the anchor that is in line with a single rope rap to another good rap anchor of Mysterious French Woman.
By derekpearson
Nov 30, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Yes the way I set it up is , when you thread the bolt also use the fallen tree . It should have another bolt but I didn't have one and the tree is perfect but not obvious because you are standing on it. originally I only used the tree or double rope rap from p1 law and order's finish.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Jun 9, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I gave this route a scrub. the thin cracks protect the plants from being completely removed, would need Roundup. I removed much vegetation and dirt from the start, but ran out of time so sorry for dirty start, still better then it was.
There is a good horizontal crack before you pull up onto the ledge at the start before the bolt, .75, #1 or #2 camalot.
Removed two biners from the bolts, not sure if someone started up it thinking it all bolts and bailed, or if encountered too much plants, or rapped from top down route only to realize the rope did not reach the ground?
By Scott Goodwin
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 28, 2014

Overall, a great climb. Bottom is dirty as hell, and getting to the first bolt may be a bit scary, depending on how you're feeling. It's not terribly hard, but when you mantle up after the left traverse in the beginning, a fall would be really nasty.
The left variation is stellar. So much fun! My fat fingers were just able to slip under the finger crack to give me a beautiful lie back the whole way up.
I was able to rap down to the ledge about 10' below the first bolt on a 70m rope, and then scramble down the rest of the way. Definitely tie knots on the ends of your rope if you do this, cause you won't get all the way to the bottom.
By derekpearson
Jul 30, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I like to protect traverse with a .3 or .4 BD cam. Someone did some cleaning at the start its still dirty but it was worse a year ago. I did so much digging on the top and bottom before I placed the bolts. The lay back section was as is. Fun climb totally worth doing.
By derekpearson
Jul 30, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I just noticed Geoff your the one that cleaned at the start thanks!
By wayne wallace
Jun 1, 2015
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Thanks Geoff! What a great route to add to the collection. I was shocked however to not find rap bolts at the end(35m) before the groove though. We had hoped to rap and end the day there, but did Black Rock and went to the top instead. O well
Rock Climbing Photo: left variation
left variation
By derekpearson
Jun 2, 2015
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Hi Wayne, I almost did put one there. The groove is so short I decided to put the anchor at the top. I could add one there though.
By Jon Nelson
Administrator
Jun 2, 2015

The anchor at the top of the groove, where the big ledge is, seems much more natural for the anchor. So, I prefer the anchor where it is now.

Also, the current anchor works well for the "Anarchy and Chaos" variation, which goes left of the groove.
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Apr 30, 2016
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I thought I would add this comment after hearing a couple stories from people climbing this route (they did the right hand variation because they thought it was easier and got spooked/and or fell). I've done both variations:

The "Left hand variation" protects the best, and is a fun layback ending in a 1- bolt traverse back to the right.

The "right hand variation" uses small pro (brass offset), maybe pg13 and graded maybe 5.9 and a little dirty, could use a bolt, maybe.

I like the left variation the best! The only move on the left hand variation that may feel spooky is a couple face moves getting to the layback, but maybe the face moves are 5.8. The layback is maybe 10a/5.9 depending where you climb and protects something like this: smaller gear (green or blue basic totem/alien), red basic totem, red basic totem, yellow basic totem/alien.

Note about rapping: It's pretty easy to get down, via different routes or downclimb or tree 2nd rap. I agree with Jon. Another anchor is NOT needed. I like the one where it is! What a fun 40m-45m or maybe 50m long climb!

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