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The North Forty
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Unsorted Routes:

Lavender Eye 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
Page Views: 2,256
Submitted By: adampeters on Jun 1, 2007
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Pulling into the crux.


Easy climbing up the slab situates you below a roof boulder problem. Clip the bolt above the roof and then move through the crux to jugs on the head wall.


Between Sonny Jim and Green Goblin.


7 QD's,

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Lavender Eye
Lavender Eye
Lavender Eye - heel hook beta
Lavender Eye - heel hook beta
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By Andy Chasteen
From: Oklahoma City, OK
Jan 30, 2008

It's between Sonny Jim and 1st Normal Form.

By Arthur Nisnevich
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 16, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Tricky and committing four-move boulder problem at the roof. The climbing until and past the roof is 5.10.

By Kevin W. Corcoran
Oct 19, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a

In my recollection, being tall was a significant advantage for the crux on this route. I remember the beginning of the route being very easy (5.8?). The crux was a little tricky to figure out but not particularly difficult for me. The end of the route is about 15 feet of steep jug-bashing.

By steven charles
Dec 18, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

I'd give it 12a. sure the climbing before the roof is easy, but pulling the crux is definitely 12a in my estimation. there is now a fixed draw (chain) hanging at the crux, so it's easier to clean, and you can get on it and not leave a biner if you can't pull the crux.

By Tradoholic
Mar 30, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII E5 6a

Sorry, not 12a. Easy to a V3+ boulder problem. My beta was to get more of a side pull out of that pocket.

By gabe14
Mar 21, 2011

i thought it was fun getting there but its like 5.10 climbing, and then the 5.12 move came and i found out its not tall guy friendly at all! i saw 3 short guys get it no problem and then all of us tall guys had to get all ugly and make up moves that sucks. if they even got it.

By PanCakeFace
Jul 28, 2013

Beta that would have helped me a lot would be to tape your right ring finger up pretty gratuitously. The first crux hold left my knuckle dented and torn

By Alfonso
Mar 21, 2014

I worked the route...figured out the crux, now know the sequence. Will get a redpoint send next time i'm on it. I used the heel hook beta.