Lavender Eye 5.12a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11d [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | adampeters on Jun 1, 2007 |
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Pulling into the crux.
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Description Easy climbing up the slab situates you below a roof boulder problem. Clip the bolt above the roof and then move through the crux to jugs on the head wall.
Location Between Sonny Jim and Green Goblin.
Protection 7 QD's,
Lavender Eye
| Lavender Eye - heel hook beta
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By Andy Chasteen From: Oklahoma City, OK Jan 30, 2008
| It's between Sonny Jim and 1st Normal Form. |
By Arthur Nisnevich From: Boulder, CO Mar 16, 2008 rating: 5.12a
| Tricky and committing four-move boulder problem at the roof. The climbing until and past the roof is 5.10. |
By Kevin W. Corcoran From: Portland, Oregon Oct 19, 2008 rating: 5.11c
| In my recollection, being tall was a significant advantage for the crux on this route. I remember the beginning of the route being very easy (5.8?). The crux was a little tricky to figure out but not particularly difficult for me. The end of the route is about 15 feet of steep jug-bashing. |
By steven charles Dec 18, 2008 rating: 5.12a
| I'd give it 12a. sure the climbing before the roof is easy, but pulling the crux is definitely 12a in my estimation. there is now a fixed draw (chain) hanging at the crux, so it's easier to clean, and you can get on it and not leave a biner if you can't pull the crux. |
By Trad Nanny Mar 30, 2010 rating: 5.11d
| Sorry, not 12a. Easy to a V3+ boulder problem. My beta was to get more of a side pull out of that pocket. |
By gabe14 Mar 21, 2011
| i thought it was fun getting there but its like 5.10 climbing, and then the 5.12 move came and i found out its not tall guy friendly at all! i saw 3 short guys get it no problem and then all of us tall guys had to get all ugly and make up moves that sucks. if they even got it. |
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