Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Greatest Show Area
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Back to Power T 
Begoon/Artz Corner T 
Big Top T 
Carny Crack T 
Fruity Pants (AKA Porter's 12c) S 
Greatest Show On Earth, The T 
Interpreting Intermission S 
Just Another Pretty Face S 
Lavender Days S 
Mango Tango S 
Puppy Chow S 
Ziggerknot T 

Lavender Days 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Matt Lavender (1993)
Page Views: 987
Submitted By: ---- on Jun 29, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]

Description 

Upon first inspection this route might look a little silly because it has a 30 foot lip traverse. Get on the route and you'll see that the route definitely takes the line of least resistance and the traverse is actually quite complex and fun.

Start with three bolts of easy blocky climbing. The first hard moves involve technical movement around a roof. Get creative by knee barring or heel hooking around this deceptively tricky roof.

Once established on the lip move right between slopers and good jugs. Don't be afraid to lead with your feet. Once you reach the base of the hanging arete you are rewarded with 90% recovery at an interesting rest. Just before the first bolt on the arete, place your right hip toward the wall, lay both legs on the ledge, and engage two heel-toe cams in an undercling feature. Your right knee should automatically slot into a knee bar. Hands can go on a handle bar jug, or you can let go entirely and hang fully on your legs (Similar to the rest at the top of Apollo Reed).

There are two options for making it through the beginning crux section of the arete. You can slap directly up the arete for a couple hard moves or you can move further right through a selection of slopers. The more direct version could be reachy for anyone with a wingspan less than 5'8". Which ever version you choose, do be careful not to land in the pine tree.

The rest of the overhanging arete contains thoughtful movement between deep pockets. A few more decent rests diminish the pump heading to the chains.

Overall this is one of the most unique sport routes in the NRG region. With the recent addition of long fixed cable draws on the traverse the experience has been made much more convenient and enjoyable.

Location 

This route is hard to miss, located just left of Puppy Chow. It travels up the left side of the giant roof.

Protection 

12 bolts + anchor. Three long cable draws on the traverse section. Take a long draw for the first bolt on the arete.


Comments on Lavender Days Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -