Excellent climb, one of the best of its grade in the Gorge. Mantle up past two bolts heading right to a wide step-across to the left. Crimp and smear up a slabby section to a small ramp to the left. Lieback around and up to the dihedral and then straight up to the anchors.
Upper Gorge Flavin Haven
|By B.S. Luther|
From: Walnut, CA
Apr 4, 2011
Highly recommended climb. If your accustomed to vertical face climbing like me, this is a really interesting foray into angles of all kinds.
|By kelly r cordner|
Apr 18, 2012
Lava Haul was extended to higher anchors. I counted 16 bolts. Use a 70 meter rope. The grade is still 10a. This route was originally set as a rope solo ground up using a soloist. The lower anchors were used to accommodate the shorter ropes of 90's. you can get to the original chain anchors (maybe a 10b move) and set up a top rope on Caldera with a 70m rope. Those anchors were used to set the "point full" variation on Caldera.
From: Sierra Eastside, CA
Apr 12, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
One of the best 10a's I've ever climbed, thanks Kelly. Quite an adventure with the slab, liebacking, crimps/edges, traversing, crack, jugs, high stepping, mantling....use almost all on this route. And love that it's long. Bring an extendable to prevent rope drag on the 5th or so bolt.
From: Bozeman, MT
Apr 14, 2014
Bring 17 draws if you want to clip them all.