Lava Falls 5.9 R
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Holmgren, Matthews, Vandevere, 1982 |
| Submitted By: | Jon Hanlon on Sep 26, 2007 |
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Ladies and Gentlemen...Lava Falls.
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Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>>
Emergency Closure for Condor Nesting
The area within the following boundary is closed to public access for the protection of wildlife:
* From the summit of the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660722, N4038501) west following an unnamed ridge to a point due south of the Western Front rock formation (UTM E660328, N4038999)
* From the Western Front rock formation north (UTM E660328, N4038999) and northeast, encompassing the Resurrection Wall formation to a junction with the Juniper Canyon Trail (UTM E660800, N4039401), 1/3 mi from the Juniper Canyon trailhead)
* Along the southern side of the Juniper Canyon Trail to a junction with a ridgeline extending due north from the Goat Rock formation (UTM E660956, N4039214)
* Extending south along the ridgeline to the summit of the Goat Rock formation.
The Resurrection Wall and Western Front formations, and the west face of Goat Rock are closed. The Juniper Canyon trail and the east face of Goat Rock remain open. All current raptor advisory areas remain in effect.
Signage has been posted at strategic locations.
Violation of this emergency closure (36 CFR 1.5(f)) or 16 U.S.C 1531-1543 is punishable by a fine of not more than $500 or imprisonment for not exceeding six months, or both.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Two magnificent pitches of wild stemming up a spooky black groove on the Balconies. Pitch one involves steep knob climbing between sometimes sparsely-placed bolts. An occasional knob can be tied off, but the steep crux comes between a gap in protection opportunities.
Pitch 2 requires more hip-cramping stemming up the water-hardened chute. This pitch is not to be missed.
At the time of this writing, not all bolts are inspiring, and some loose rock is present.
Location Lava Falls can be found in the middle of the Balconies. The route starts in a stand of trees just uphill from the Smiling Simian. Follow the black gully that pinches off at the top.
Protection Quickdraws and full length runners for tying off knobs and clipping wandering bolts. Bolted anchors on both pitches.
Stemmin' up pitch 2.
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BETA PHOTO: Balconies as seen from top of Machete.
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BETA PHOTO: Lava & Shake
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Note that the mid-point anchor on Lava Falls is lo...
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By Kyle Queener
Jan 30, 2009
| Re-bolted in January 2009. Expect "bomber" bolts. |
By aaron hope
From: Walnut Creek, CA
Aug 28, 2010
rating: 5.9 R
| Well protected. Except for the crux. |
By Colin Simon
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 5, 2010
rating: 5.9 R
| This was my first lead ever, in April 2008.
I was terrified. I had done a bunch of gym climbing but only toproped outside about 5 times.
This route still feels special, and defined me as a climber. |
By Owen McGrath
Jan 16, 2011
| Just climbed the first pitch today. Didn't make the second as we were benighted.
Bolts are really solid, except at the crux, place extra slings on nobs or be ready for a decent whipper.
All told, an amazing climb. Great stemming route, and an even more epic view.
Was my first time to Pinnacles. Can't wait to get back.
Also, anyone have beta for those wanting to camp and climb only on the West Side? Is it cool to leave a car overnight and trek to campground on the east side? Anyone tried to ask some of the ranches on the way in if it would be cool to pitch a tent for a night's sleep? |
By beachplus4
From: So San Francisco
Jan 16, 2011
| I was told no cars over night on the west side by Ranger Mark. Camping on th east is so easy and its a short hike to any of the climbs on the west. |
By kovarpa
Jan 17, 2011
| You can rap off with a 70m rope if you are willing to downclimb the last approx. 10 feet to the ground. |
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