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Tim Leyden on the start of Latest Edition.
Mantle a few times to a stance below a bolt. Clip this and do a thin move or two (crux) to reach an overlap. Follow the white streak straight up to a double bolt anchor at about 30m.
There are four lines between the Dihedral and the Army cable...Latest Edition is the white streak right of center with the bolt kinda high on the slab.
1 bolt, small to medium cams
Tim approaching the bolt.
Crimpin & Smearin through the crux
|Comments on Latest Edition
|By Paul Barnes|
From: Gainesville, Georgia
May 31, 2009
I tried to find out as much as I could about this line before I put it up. Jacobs and Crowder tell me this particular line on the Friction Slab hadn't been led. I will gladly give credit where credit is due if it has.
From: NE, GA
Jun 3, 2009
This is the first bolted route to the left of the cable, at the right side of the friction slab. It's quite worthwhile if you're in the area. The friction slab is the clean slab between the Dihedral route and the Army cable.
From: Decatur, GA
Nov 8, 2009
I really enjoyed this route, one of the most interesting leads I've done at Yonah so far. The runout to the bolt (maybe 30') was a mental challenge but not real hard climbing. I think you might be able to get a 000 C3 in one of those seams before the bolt, but I didn't have mine with me, so I just ran it out. The bolt is well placed to protect the crux, which was the only real 5.8 moves on the route for me. The rest of the route is cool climbing and pretty well protected.
If someone's already on the bolted anchors for the Three Cam Party route to the left, there's good placements at the top for a solid gear anchor, then you can clean and rap off the Three Cam anchors when you're done.
Congratulations Paul and Jody on an excellent new route!