|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 100'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA:||Paul Barnes, Jody Jacobs|
|Submitted By:||Orphaned on May 31, 2009|
|Comments on Latest Edition||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: NE, GA
Jun 3, 2009
|This is the first bolted route to the left of the cable, at the right side of the friction slab. It's quite worthwhile if you're in the area. The friction slab is the clean slab between the Dihedral route and the Army cable.|
From: Decatur, GA
Nov 8, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I really enjoyed this route, one of the most interesting leads I've done at Yonah so far. The runout to the bolt (maybe 30') was a mental challenge but not real hard climbing. I think you might be able to get a 000 C3 in one of those seams before the bolt, but I didn't have mine with me, so I just ran it out. The bolt is well placed to protect the crux, which was the only real 5.8 moves on the route for me. The rest of the route is cool climbing and pretty well protected.
If someone's already on the bolted anchors for the Three Cam Party route to the left, there's good placements at the top for a solid gear anchor, then you can clean and rap off the Three Cam anchors when you're done.
Congratulations Paul and Jody on an excellent new route!
By Harrison Laird
5 days ago
|Great route. Bolt is well placed to protect the crux moves and the moves to get to it are easy. Keep your head in the game for the climbing above the bulge, some of the smears felt pretty insecure in the summer heat.|
By Luke R 84
5 days ago
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
|We climbed today and added a second pitch which covered 5.easy terrain to the headwall; I placed 0 gear until I reached a flake on the headwall, then essentially traversed to what the 3rd Edition Dixie Cragger's calls the top out of "Fat Bitches in the Sky. We rappelled off of rings on the clifftop. The traverse was very easy and there were a few spots for pro.|