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Last Waltz 
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Slow Burn 
Sunshine Dihedral 
Take a Powder 
To Bolt Or Not To Be 
Vision 
Watts Totts 
Wedding Day 

Last Waltz 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Alan Watts
Page Views: 1,680
Submitted By: ---- on Nov 17, 2008
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Pawel Sending.
Seasonal Raptor Closure 2012 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Last Waltz features thin balancy moves and blind reaches. While not extremely pumpy it remains technically demanding to the chains.

Start by suffering through thin 5.11 slab moves past the first three bolts of Moondance. No this is not the crux so try to hide the pain in your eyes as you make it past a series of small sharp edges. Next make a couple traverse moves to the fourth bolt. From here move into the roof, clip a long sling and get a good stemming rest. With some effort exit the roof out right using some insecure “fin” holds and a couple of small edges. This is an insecure awkward crux, but it is rewarding nonetheless.

It just keeps getting better. Once around the roof take a good shake then enter the most sequential section of the aręte. From here pinch/sidepull the aręte and highstep your way through continuous technical aręte climbing. The right side of the aręte features some small positive edges that may be hard to see. The aręte is probably around 12a and it is tons of fun if you have a decent idea of where the good holds are.

If you like death missions try the severely runout direct start to the route. Sorry there is no extra credit for putting your life on the line. The grade remains 12c regardless of where you start.


Location 

Shares first three bolts with Moondance. Obvious arete left of To Bolt Or Not To Be


Protection 

11 bolts plus chain anchors. Fixed draws starting at fifth bolt



Comments on Last Waltz Add Comment
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By JamesLucas
Mar 23, 2012

I sent this sandbag right after a body shot on a Western College coeds stomach. Spring Break!

By bheller
From: SL UT
Mar 26, 2012

I'm sure you were feeling pretty spunky after that...
or perhaps you were fueled by a Malibu Rum type body shot?...

By Matt Sedor
From: portland, or
Mar 29, 2012

Aw man am I lame. I sent sans shot. Very poor style on my part.

By slim
Administrator
Feb 14, 2014

i think peter just wants to know what his name was....