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Pitch 1. Climb the slab with nice chickenheads to a fixed nut/cam belay.60ft 5.10
Pitch 2. Here it joins Ralph, Herb etc for 20ft passing an awkward wide slot. Just past the slot is a right leaning corner. Step into this and undercling, jam, stem and layback your way to a bolt. Swing right and hand traverse a rail to reach the chimney. Climb the chimney untill you can step right on to a nice patina face. Clip a bolt and romp up to the anchor. 100ft 5.11
Starts 30ft right of Valentine Crack/Gimme Danger and just left of Ralph,Herb etc.
Rap to the Lunar Tick anchor and then ground.
You can lower to the Lunar Tick anchor if you do it in 2 pitches. Makes for a good view to watch your second on the last pitch.
Pitch 1. Bolts
Pitch 2. Nice to have a 5" cam for the 5.8 awkward slot off the belay but not super cruical.
Then 1/2" to 3" cams. Wire set, peenuts and lots of long slings.
NOTE. Make sure you save some long slings for any gear placed in chimney. It will help on rope drag for the final upper face.
Gene on the first pitch with the leaning corner up...
|By John Steiger|
Aug 23, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 6a
Congrats for unearthing another good route in the Dragon Arch area. We found the first pitch slab to have a very stiff move; I’ll vote 5.10c/d, and maybe harder if shorter that 6’. The crux section on the second pitch is classic LCC thrutching—lay away, fingers, stemming, overhanging fingers, cups, butt scumming, followed by a boulder-like hand shuffle. Pretty damn cool. Last Shout seems slightly harder and more sustained than the crux second pitch of Enter the Dragon, although it’s a different kind of climbing. We did both pitches in one long pitch; heinous drag, not recommended. Expect a tad bit of flakiness, but nothing to sweat over.