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 ADVANCED
Dragon Arch
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dragon Arch T 
Enter the Dragon T 
Gimme Danger T 
Hairstyles and Attitudes T 
Last Shout T 
Lunar Tick S 
Ralph, Herb, Bert, and Ernie T 
Rodeo Girls in Bondage T 
Toymakers Dream T 
Two Heads Are Better Than One T 
Valentine Crack T 

Last Shout 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Andy Ross & Gene Vallee (alt leads)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 862
Submitted By: apross on Jun 19, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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BETA PHOTO: Last Shout

Description 

Pitch 1. Climb the slab with nice chickenheads to a fixed nut/cam belay.60ft 5.10

Pitch 2. Here it joins Ralph, Herb etc for 20ft passing an awkward wide slot. Just past the slot is a right leaning corner. Step into this and undercling, jam, stem and layback your way to a bolt. Swing right and hand traverse a rail to reach the chimney. Climb the chimney untill you can step right on to a nice patina face. Clip a bolt and romp up to the anchor. 100ft 5.11

Location 

Starts 30ft right of Valentine Crack/Gimme Danger and just left of Ralph,Herb etc.
Rap to the Lunar Tick anchor and then ground.
You can lower to the Lunar Tick anchor if you do it in 2 pitches. Makes for a good view to watch your second on the last pitch.

Protection 

Pitch 1. Bolts
Pitch 2. Nice to have a 5" cam for the 5.8 awkward slot off the belay but not super cruical.
Then 1/2" to 3" cams. Wire set, peenuts and lots of long slings.
NOTE. Make sure you save some long slings for any gear placed in chimney. It will help on rope drag for the final upper face.


Photos of Last Shout Slideshow Add Photo
Gene on the first pitch. <br />The second pitch goes up the leaning corner to the right.
Gene on the first pitch.
The second pitch goes up ...

Comments on Last Shout Add Comment
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By John Steiger
Aug 23, 2011
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Congrats for unearthing another good route in the Dragon Arch area. We found the first pitch slab to have a very stiff move; I’ll vote 5.10c/d, and maybe harder if shorter that 6’. The crux section on the second pitch is classic LCC thrutching—lay away, fingers, stemming, overhanging fingers, cups, butt scumming, followed by a boulder-like hand shuffle. Pretty damn cool. Last Shout seems slightly harder and more sustained than the crux second pitch of Enter the Dragon, although it’s a different kind of climbing. We did both pitches in one long pitch; heinous drag, not recommended. Expect a tad bit of flakiness, but nothing to sweat over.
By apross
Mar 14, 2014

Hey Todd, you do have to climb both pitches to get the tick.
Give me a shout if you need a belay.
By Todd Green
From: SLC, UT
Apr 16, 2014

As you saw @IME, I'm old and can't remember names of routes unless I track them here. MP.com needs to take a gander at RP.com where you can tag a ticked route as an onsight, solo, hang dog, tr, etc. Until then I just use the comments. If it doesn't say RP/OS, etc. it wasn't a send.

But I'll take you up on the belay and do the "money pitch" and give you the stars you deserve. :P (We only had the guide book and I thought I was doing Ralph, Herb, Bert and Ernie. Turns out we did half of Andy's route (3 stars) and a bushwack/rope drag scramble for the finish of RHBE (1 star, though the roof was fun) hence the 2 stars.) Fixed.

While I'm posting, I'll also agree that there is one move on the slab first pitch that is solid 10(+ depending on height) and the rest will keep your attention and is traditional LCC slabby goodness.
By Adam Maxwell
From: SLC
May 4, 2014
rating: 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a

This climb is RAD! Got on it by accident the first time and was stoked to repeat. Definitely a super classic LCC 11 and a must do. Such a huge variety of moves that keeps your attention the whole way.
By Drew_n
From: Park City, UT
May 14, 2014

Hey all, in a PBR induced stupor we might have left a #3 and .4 camalot at the base of Last Shout (5/04). Anyone out there see them and be willing to return lost booty?

Cheers, ajn