|Type:||Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|Submitted By:||jeff haskell on May 8, 2005|
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By Anonymous Coward
May 15, 2005
|There are rap anchors and chains above this wall. A bit hard to find but they are hidden under a cairn out towards the finish point of Alimony Wall route. Just climbers left of the finish. Super bomber and a bit better than the quick hike in.|
By S. Stember
From: St. Paul, MN
Jun 19, 2007
|This route can be done in three pitches if you link P1 and P2 together. Also, if you cannot find the rap anchors mentioned below, just set your own anchors in the wide crack at the top of the route (the crack is about 6 ft. from the edge)and rap down. This crack protects with three #4 camalots to set a rap/toprope. The right side variation at the beginning of the last pitch goes at 5.9 and is an ackward wide crack.|
By John Peterson
Sep 28, 2010
Not really a 5.11 route - very consistent at 5.8 - 5.9 except one short section. We didn't do the 5.8 variation but that would make the route 5.9.
One way to do the approach is to rap in (60m) and leave the line there, cleaning it on the way out. The bolts hide under a small pile of rocks.
We aided the crux (just a couple of pulls on the gear - #5 Camalot helps here). The 5.8 variation looked pretty mellow but doesn't seem to get any traffic. Probably not R rated but a bit sporty.
A good route that will get better as things get cleaned up (especially the 1st pitch).
By Skyeler Congdon
From: his van
May 8, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Stellar climbing. We climbed a crack system left of the chimney start as described in the guidebook and this was the only mediocre section of climbing. From pitch two on, the rock is quality granite and the climbing is sustained at the grade.
The 5.8 face climbing variation to the wide crux is great but dangerous, comparable in difficulty and consequence to the first pitch of Journey Home- maybe a little more mellow.
Consider linking this route with Alimony and even Steppin' Out. We did Alimony, ate lunch, and then did Last Payment. Highly recommended for a hot, casual day in the Black.