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The Morrissey Crag
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Last of the Famous International Playboys T 
You're the One For Me, Fatty T 

Last of the Famous International Playboys 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: V. Stiefel & H. Harris, 5/18/03
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 126
Submitted By: Vernon Stiefel on May 18, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
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Taking on the second bulge enroute to the top.

Description 

The climb ascends two very thin and discontinuous cracks that don't reach the ground on the east face. The rock is slightly overhanging for the first half of the climb (40').

Begin left of the cracks in a dihedral and climb 10' to a ledge. Traverse right to the base of one of the cracks. A #2 TCU (awkward placement) protects difficult moves over a bulging section. One more bulge higher up leads to the top. Protection is intermittent and challenging to place but solid. This climb has the potential to be 3 stars out of 5 but more ascents are needed to clean up the rock.

Protection 

Very thin to 0.75" including brass and very small TCU's (#00 - #4). Double Ropes are helpful to minimize drag. Bring medium to large cams for the anchor. Down climb off the south end of the crag.


Photos of Last of the Famous International Playboys Slideshow Add Photo
Placing a crucial #2TCU before ascending the first of two bulging sections. Photo by H. Harris.
Placing a crucial #2TCU before ascending the first...
BETA PHOTO
Randy warming up for the route named in his honor (photo by GQ mag).
Randy warming up for the route named in his honor ...

Comments on Last of the Famous International Playboys Add Comment
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By Anonymous Coward
Jun 10, 2003

Check out the lycra! But the photo is clearly a fake, you can see Cyclops Rock in the background. Besides, Randy's taste isn't that good.
By David Evans
Jun 11, 2003

I believe that they used a body double (maybe Largo)!
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 11, 2003

I don't know about it being a fake, the rope is backclipped after all!
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 11, 2003

Yikes, Sherlock! You may have had something there if it weren't for the fact that Randy never wears tank tops (no farmers tan).
By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 11, 2003

Looks like the route Church Bazaar or Hintertoisser Traverse perhaps - just a guess.
By Anonymous Coward
Jun 11, 2003

I thought "backclipping" is only a climbing gym phenomenon....right Randy?
By Randy
Jun 13, 2003

Looks like a body double/photoshop fake to me (head clearly pasted on some more buff climber's body). Backclip, smack-clip, whaddah ya mean? Seems OK to me.