|Original: || Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]|
|FA: ||JJ Schlick|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Spring, summer, fall|
|Page Views: ||43|
|Submitted By: ||JJ Schlick on Apr 29, 2011|
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Wade on Last Light. You can see the crux holds up...
Last Light is the logical traverse of the East wall in the Corridor. There is an absolutely fabulous series of holds moving right to left, and the slightly overhanging wall takes you on a tour of the geology of Kelly Canyon 'Holds'. From finger stack drop pockets to bare bald slopers this line has them all, and the rock quality is excellent. Do to the complex nature of the holds this line feels like a route, and would be a challenging flash for almost any climber. An added bonus is that you can stem the corridor (maybe...) to clean the holds.
Start way right at a beautiful orange shield down low with large jug for the right hand. The first set of moves are probably V3ish. Continue moving up and left on the path of least resistance which is pretty well defined, and the line doesnt let you stray much. There is an obvious shake just before the conspicuous slopey rail section, and after that the true send crux awaits... Top out on the large incut jug rail wayyyy up at the left end of the wall. The topout is positive, and there is an awesome little chicken head right at the end... It's sort of a perfect line if your into traverses. I spent quite a bit of time cleaning this thing, and it was worth it.
The line to do in the Corridor.
The Corridor is pretty clear, though some large rocks do poke through the leafy cover. Pads are nice but can turn into "sleds" real quick on the leaves.
Wade F. piecing together the intricacies of Last L...
Almost ready to top it out. Wade Forrest Photo
Last Light Wade Forrest Photo
By Robin Daugherty
Jul 17, 2015
rating: V5 6C
This problem is a nice long sustained climb. I found it rather challenging due to the length, but I don't think any of the moves are particular difficult. It feels like sustained V1-2 climbing with a V3-4 crux.
There are a couple good starting points midway up the corridor, if you just want to pull the crux moves. Directly below the far right of the sloping rail and the crack directly below the lip jugs.
As for pads, I brought two pads and put one on each of the sections with vertical moves. I felt completely safe with that amount of protection, and I'd probably feel safe with less. There are only a couple spots where you go more than 5-6 feet off the ground, and if you step off to your left, the ground is even closer due to the slope of the hill.