2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
Start this climb as for Grins, climbing that route to the top of the "tooth," about 50 feet up. Step to the left and clip a bolt, or vice versa, and do the crux move to establish yourself just left of the arete. Climb up at the edge of the arete past two more bolts with a second crux above the last bolt. Finish on a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor & walk off or rap.
Standard light rack up to 3" plus 3 bolts for the 5.11 section. [Rossiter] calls for large RPs, but I think you're just as well going for it on the standard rack and trusting the bolts to catch you; it is not really runout.
This is a reasonable top-rope to set from near the top of Grins, but it would require a scramble to get to if starting from the top of the cliff.
You may need a 60m rope to TR this climb or to lower off.
Eds. the right bolt of the 2 bolt anchor without rings is protruding noticeably from the rock.