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D'Arcy's Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
30 Second Crack T,TR 
Cemetery Wall TR 
Darcy's Wall TR 
Darkness At Noon T,TR 
Death Leap 2000 TR 
Easy Overhang T,TR 
Grand Traverse, The T,TR 
Last Gasp T,TR 
Ship's Prow TR 
Strawberry Fields TR 
Zig-Zag T 
Zschiesche's Roof T 

Last Gasp 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Jim Erickson
Page Views: 92
Submitted By: Jim McGuire on Dec 12, 2003  with updates from James M Schroeder

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Rhoads.

Description 

Last Gasp is an aesthetically pleasing line up an obtuse outside corner just left of Darcy's Wall.

The true ascent line starts just left of the corner in a depression which in days of yore was called the "Snake Pit." One can start more easily even farther left behind a standing block and traverse back to the corner on a ledge, however this is considered an anathema and doesn't make the ascent that much easier anyway.

Continue more or less straight up, or a little left of, the corner to the top. Unless you are a real hardman you will know at the top why it is called "Last Gasp."

Protection 

Small gear for a lead but 99.9% of the ascents of this route are toppers.


Photos of Last Gasp Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lissette pulling out the start of Last Gasp
Lissette pulling out the start of Last Gasp
Rock Climbing Photo: On the upper half of Last Gasp.
On the upper half of Last Gasp.
Rock Climbing Photo: MF, the opening moves out of the 'pit'.
MF, the opening moves out of the 'pit'.
Rock Climbing Photo: MF or last gasp
MF or last gasp
Rock Climbing Photo: Calvin
Calvin

Comments on Last Gasp Add Comment
Show which comments
By EB
From: Winona
Jan 12, 2004

last gasp is one of the more fun 5.8 leads at the park in my opinion. Take two blue tcu's for the horizontal crack on the corner( they're bomber) make the crux moves and its buckets to the top
By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Campton, NH
Jan 17, 2004

Everyone should know this about Last Gasp: The climb starts in the pit. Do not start it on the surrounding boulders or the locals will have the route police arrest you. You will be charged with degrading a 5.8 rating to a 5.6+ (an offense that is punishable by having to buy beer for everyone at Conways).

Don't say I didn't warn you....
By Anonymous
Apr 13, 2005

"Snake Pit"
By James M Schroeder
Administrator
From: Sauk County, WI
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

I think this route deserves a PG13 designator. It would be possible to deck when going up to the last jug.
By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Aug 31, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

What a great climb. For a 5.8, the movement is just superb.

I'm gonna have to go with "R" for this route. It is possible to deck, and groundfall is "R" in my book.
By James M Schroeder
Administrator
From: Sauk County, WI
Mar 18, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R

After leading this thing again, it is probably "R" rated. My PG13 comments from 2009 were not aggressive enough.

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