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k. The Slime Wall
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Last Frontier 

YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 1963: Dick Williams, John Hudson, Jim McCarthy FFA: 1964: Rick Horn
Page Views: 1,879
Submitted By: Denis O'Connor on Jan 23, 2010

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Pete searching the Last Frontier for feet

Description 

This overhanging crack/chimney is hard to miss if you continue walking along the base of the cliff beyond the Seasons area (it might be hard to climb, too). It has some unique and strenuous moves, but is very well-protected (for the first pitch, anyway).

Begin at a short, steep finger crack in a right-facing corner, and work your way up into the bottomless chimney. Great jams can be had above your head, but the feet are insecure. Work your way up and right out of the chimney (crux), past a horizontal (another crux!), to a ledge with a fixed anchor, from which you can rap (50 feet).

Williams's book indicates two pitches above, but the second pitch is listed as 5.8 R/X, so I didn't try it. If anyone wants to add that info, I'll edit the description.


Location 

Generally, between the Seasons and the Slime Wall. Specifically, 45 right of Blistered Toe


Protection 

The usual rack, but nothing small, and you might want an extra #2 camalot.



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Pete looking for jams, gear, and feet.
Pete looking for jams, gear, and feet.
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By JSH
Administrator
Jan 25, 2010

This is one of those rare routes where leading it without a helmet might be the lesser of two evils.

By ericcr
Nov 7, 2011

atypical movement.

there is sometimes an anchor 40' up around a chockstone/pinch, but it comes and goes. there is a tree another 30' up dirty, easy climbing that also sometimes has an anchor.

By digforfire
Nov 21, 2011

Anchor 40' up has been chopped...keep going to the tree.

By David Wilkerson
From: Rockville, MD
Jun 11, 2012

Save this one for a cold day!

By paulmadry
Jul 22, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'd tape up.