Last Call 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Kurt Gray and Larry Shubarth, 1979. |
| Submitted By: | Shaun Miller on Jan 1, 2001 |
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Alex Andrews stemming at the crux bulge.
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Description Last Call starts in the crack just to the right of Rush Hour (5.12a) and avoids its overhanging section. Climb the crack until you encounter a slight overhang a third of the way up. Here you need to traverse to the left where you will climb the upper portion of Rush Hour. The traverse is the crux of the move. This route provides a good alternative for those who are unable to negotiate the crux of Rush Hour.
Protection The toprope requires a class 4-5 down climb from the top of the wall, you'll need some gear and a sling. The top is best accessed via a hike up the left side of the crag. You can rope up the route without the down climb, but I do not recommend it due to rope wear.
Shaun Miller cranks around the small roof.
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BETA PHOTO: 7. Last Call, 9+.
8. Dementia, 10a.
9. Malign, 7.
...
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Logging a little airtime at the crux.
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 22, 2002
rating: 5.9+
| Really fun, and kinda hard at it's grade for this cliff. |
By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Jun 26, 2003
| I thought this route was almost as good as Dementia (which I think is the best pitch in the canyon) and as good as any other route at Happy Hour. Felt stiff for 5.9 (pumpy!) but the gear is pretty good, albeit a little awkward in places. Surprising this route is star-less in Rossiter's guide. The anchor on top can be set with #1 to #4 Camalots; I used a #1, #3 and #3.5. |
By Hayden Yurkanis
Sep 25, 2003
| This route is the best on the cliff...really spectacular and 10 times better than Dementia. The crux is definitely getting over the chimney roof, then there is some more hard laybacking up above. This climb is probably a sandbag, but the protection is excellent. |
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 25, 2003
rating: 5.9+
| Along with Dementia, the best route on Happy Hour. Sustained, interesting climbing throughout with a burly layback crux past the roof.
Set up a gear anchor to belay, then traverse right and rap from the bolts atop Cheers (aka Thrill of the Chaise) to get down. |
By Jason Shatek
Jan 2, 2006
rating: 5.9
| Remember those 5.9 overhangs in the gym that you thought didn't exist outside? There is nothing slight about the overhang IMHO. A fantastic climb at the grade with plentiful pro; albeit a little tricky to place going around the roof. This was an awesome climb, I can't wait to do it again! |
By Sergio P
From: Idaho Springs, CO
Oct 30, 2006
rating: 5.10b
| If Dementia is 5.10a, then this is .10b. More physically-intensive then Dementia for sure. Small stoppers and/or big RPs help protect the thin crack before the 2nd roof. It is possible to traverse right at the top and lower off the Dementia anchors with a 60m rope. However, if you do this make sure to use a long sling on any gear placed after the second roof. Great route! |
By percious
From: Bear Creek, CO
Mar 23, 2009
rating: 5.9+
| I actually thought this was considerably easier than Dementia. Hard for a 5.9, as you have to place gear while hanging out on the overhanging section, but the hold there is good, and a medium sized slotted nut is quick to place with the left hand. One awkward move in the middle brings you to easier climbing. Walk off is recommended. I think this is the most sustained and best 5.9 at this crag, and may be the best climb at the cliff, it's a toss-up between this and Twofer's for me. I like the sand-bag potential for Twofer's better ;-) . |
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