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Las Conchas
Black Diamond Dart Backpack - 1831cu in

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Evolv Defy Lace Climbing Shoe

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Petzl Dartwin Crampon

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Black Diamond Vario Chest Harness

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Metolius Super Cam

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Patagonia Men's Venn 3-in-1 Parka

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Therm-A-Rest Trekker Chair

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MSR Holler 3 Tent Footprint

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Cattle Call Wall area 
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Dream Tower 
Gallery Wall 
Gateway Rock 
Grotto, The 
Hidden Tower 
Leaning Tower 
Love Shack area 
Sponge, The 
Wart, The 

Las Conchas 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 8,400'
Lat, Long: 35.8151, -106.532 Map
Page Views: 87,774. Good page? (1 like)   
Administrators: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Jul 30, 2006

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Richard Boyle starting up Death Grip

Description 

Beautiful area set in the meadows in the Jemez mountains, Las Conchas is one of the more popular summer sport climbing areas within 2 hrs of ABQ. Because of the elevation, summer days are often cool enough to be pleasant. Many of the crags in the area are set just near a creek, making the climbing that much more enjoyable.


Getting There 

From Albuquerque, take I-25 North to Bernalillo and exit at highway 550 (exit #242, DON'T miss this exit, the next exit does not come for many miles). Follow 550 to San Ysidro and head North on state road 4 for about 36 miles. You will drive past picturesque Jemez Springs, Battleship Rock, the small community of La Cueva, just beyond Las Conchas camping area to the second pull out by a well-traveled trail and meadow on your left. From Los Alamos or Santa Fe (or from the north), it is faster to reach the same area by taking NM-4 into the Jemez near Bandelier NP, passing the Valle Grande meadow (watch for elk) and reaching the same meadow.

The obvious cliff seen through the meadow on the north side of the road is Cattle Call Wall area. Most of the other cliffs are downstream, following a trail that begins on the west side of the creek.


Resources 

  • 'Jemez Rock' is the most complete guide to the area
  • 'Rock Climbing: New Mexico also covers the area


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Las Conchas:
Garden Wall   5.6     Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Gateway Rock
Crucible   5.8     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Cattle Call Wall area
Bovine Inspiration   5.9     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   Cattle Call Wall area
Hollywood Tim   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet   The Sponge
Eat Mor Chikin   5.10b     Sport, 50 feet   Cattle Call Wall area
Drive By Shooting   5.10b     Sport   Gateway Rock
Forest   5.10b/c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Gateway Rock
Donkey Show   5.10c     Sport, 40 feet   Chilly Willy Wall
We Bulls Wobble   5.10c/d     Sport, 40 feet   Cattle Call Wall area
Woof Toof Noof Roof   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Gateway Rock
Pumping Huecos   5.10d     Sport, 50 feet   The Sponge
Cow Pies For Breakfast   5.10d     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Cattle Call Wall area
General Mayhem   5.11a     Sport, 30 feet   Gateway Rock
Road Rage   5.11a     Sport   Gateway Rock
Flake Out   5.11b/c     Sport   Gateway Rock
Udder Limits   5.11c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Cattle Call Wall area
No Sketching   5.12b     Sport, 40 feet   Chilly Willy Wall
Happy Entrails   5.12c     Sport, 35 feet   Love Shack area
Death Grip   5.12d     Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet   Love Shack area
Mainliner   5.13c     Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet   Leaning Tower
Browse More Classics in Las Conchas

Featured Route For Las Conchas
Richard Boyle starting up Death Grip

Death Grip 5.12d  NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Love Shack area
A fun powerful route on very unique stone. A bouldery pre-clipped start leads to slopers and pinches. Don't botch the start as even with the first bolt pre-clipped if you fall off too early it is still possible to end up in the stream. Start out on good holds to pull the overhang and get up to the first bolt. OK crimps and a good pocket lead to a pinch and a tricky move getting to the clipping holds for the second bolt. Grab a quick shake here and move up on steeper ground through good pinches a...[more]   Browse More Classics in NM


Photos of Las Conchas Slideshow Add Photo
Looking south across highway 4 at the burned area from the Las Conchas Fire of late June 2011.

Looking south across highway 4 at the burned area ...


Comments on Las Conchas Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 22, 2012
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Aug 13, 2008

Because of the multi-use nature of this area, there's a huge problem with human waste disposal in the area. It's super pitiful to hike behind any of the climbing walls only to find huge piles of unburied dookers complete with toilet paper dressing.

This past weekend there was a big load sitting at the base of Hollywood Tim that was no doubt put in place by a non-climber. For a long while I've questioned why there isn't a porta-potty at the main parking area for Las Conchas. Sure, there's a permanent toilet just up the road towards the Caldera but people aren't likely to make the short walk or drive up there to take care of business.

This morning I attempted to contact the Jemez Ranger District of the Santa Fe National Forest at 575-829-3535 but got no answer. When I called the main SFNF office in Santa Fe they told me I'd have to speak with the Jemez Ranger district folks about this. If you get a chance to call the Jemez Ranger district and politely suggest a porta-potty, please do. I've never looked into how much it would cost to have a porta-potty setup somewhere and dumped regularly but I'd be happy to donate funds to the cause if it wasn't terribly expensive.

By Mike Dechter
Mar 3, 2010

Hello all,

The Jemez Ranger District of the Santa Fe National Forest is considering camping restrictions in the East Fork Jemez Wild and Scenic River Corridor. This includes the area between Las Conchas and Battleship Rock. There were a couple public meetings about this last year to help the Forest Service design a proposal... and now that proposal is out and the Forest Service is looking for comments on it from users like YOU.

I have a scoping letter with all of the details on the proposed action, which I can send via post or e-mail. If interested, please e-mail me with your information: mdechter@fs.fed.us. Thanks!

By Willie Mitchel
Mar 18, 2010

I read the mention of packing out waste and thought id share a product I use. Its called a Biffy Bag and it is far superior to the Wag Bag and Reststop systems. It does not require a bucket or commode and comes with everything you need in a little package. It has a triple sealed puncture proof containment bag which prevents all odor and chance of leaking. WONDERFUL product I recommend to everyone. The rammifications of human waste are seriously effecting these beautiful areas we love so much so I ask everyone to address this matter more seriously.

By Code Dog 91
From: Edgewood, NM
Sep 16, 2011

A week ago I was searching for Upper East Fork and found that two trailheads were closed and a fine would be given. Any updates on opening them would be great thanks.

By Bill Matlin
Oct 16, 2011

Noticed two new routes today on Gateway Rock, the one on the far right was excellent, what's the grade on these?

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Oct 16, 2011

Bill Matlin wrote:
Noticed two new routes today on Gateway Rock, the one on the far right was excellent, what's the grade on these?

The far right route is Forest, a former gear route that was recently retro-bolted. The other newer, short route is Unknown 5.7. I don't know who put up the routes but I think it was the same persons based on the identical hardware.

By Owen Summerscales
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 21, 2012

Anyone know about the bouldering here? There's some very nice problems, chalked and clearly have been climbed many times, just wondering about if theyve been named yet or not?

The rock's a little coarse, but the overhangs make for some superb boulders.

By Curt Dvonch
From: los alamos, nm
Apr 22, 2012

I left a rope in a blue rope bag at gateway crag yesterday (Saturday 4/21) and I checked this morning but it wasn't there. If you found the rope or if you know who did, please let me know. Thanks!