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DescriptionBeautiful area set in the meadows in the Jemez mountains, Las Conchas is one of the more popular summer sport climbing areas within 2 hrs of ABQ. Because of the elevation, summer days are often cool enough to be pleasant. Many of the crags in the area are set just near a creek, making the climbing that much more enjoyable. Getting ThereFrom Albuquerque, take I-25 North to Bernalillo and exit at highway 550 (exit #242, DON'T miss this exit, the next exit does not come for many miles). Follow 550 to San Ysidro and head North on state road 4 for about 36 miles. You will drive past picturesque Jemez Springs, Battleship Rock, the small community of La Cueva, just beyond Las Conchas camping area to the second pull out by a well-traveled trail and meadow on your left. From Los Alamos or Santa Fe (or from the north), it is faster to reach the same area by taking NM-4 into the Jemez near Bandelier NP, passing the Valle Grande meadow (watch for elk) and reaching the same meadow. Resources
The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Las Conchas:
Garden Wall 5.6 Trad, Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet Gateway Rock
Crucible 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Cattle Call Wall area
Bovine Inspiration 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet Cattle Call Wall area
Hollywood Tim 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch, 45 feet The Sponge
Eat Mor Chikin 5.10b Sport, 50 feet Cattle Call Wall area
Drive By Shooting 5.10b Sport Gateway Rock
Forest 5.10b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Gateway Rock
Donkey Show 5.10c Sport, 40 feet Chilly Willy Wall
We Bulls Wobble 5.10c/d Sport, 40 feet Cattle Call Wall area
Woof Toof Noof Roof 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet Gateway Rock
Pumping Huecos 5.10d Sport, 50 feet The Sponge
Cow Pies For Breakfast 5.10d Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Cattle Call Wall area
General Mayhem 5.11a Sport, 30 feet Gateway Rock
Road Rage 5.11a Sport Gateway Rock
Flake Out 5.11b/c Sport Gateway Rock
Udder Limits 5.11c Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet Cattle Call Wall area
No Sketching 5.12b Sport, 40 feet Chilly Willy Wall
Happy Entrails 5.12c Sport, 35 feet Love Shack area
Death Grip 5.12d Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Love Shack area
Mainliner 5.13c Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet Leaning Tower
Featured Route For Las Conchas
Death Grip 5.12d NM : Jemez Valley Area : ... : Love Shack area
A fun powerful route on very unique stone. A bouldery pre-clipped start leads to slopers and pinches. Don't botch the start as even with the first bolt pre-clipped if you fall off too early it is still possible to end up in the stream. Start out on good holds to pull the overhang and get up to the first bolt. OK crimps and a good pocket lead to a pinch and a tricky move getting to the clipping holds for the second bolt. Grab a quick shake here and move up on steeper ground through good pinches a...[more] Browse More Classics in NM
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