Large Corner Girdle 5.6 R
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Megan climbing on a sultry day out in the Wichita'...
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Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description Great rock on this fabulous line. Your 2nd needs to be competent at the grade, since an early fall with rope stretch could get them into the water. Crux is up high, the exposed move out left under the roof. Belay in the corner and move up on easier climbing to the main wall anchors, or (more sensible as the last pitch is lacking) rap off the tree to the right.
Location Start at the right side of the first pool you pass. Watch for poison ivy. Scramble off the back side down to a tree that has been slung with rap ring. A single 50m will get you back to the deck.
Protection Typical rack, gear anchors, 50M rope.
Dan Schuerch building anchors on pitch 1 of Large ...
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| Comments on Large Corner Girdle |
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By BrianUp
From: Charlottesville, VA
Jul 30, 2007
rating: 5.6
| Actually pretty fun. We both climbed up to first turn (15 feet over water) and set the 1st belay there to reduce rope drag. Belayer standing on small ledge with 2 small nuts for anchor.
Even with high 1st belay still quite a bit of drag once I was up on the big ledge (could have set 2nd belay earlier as mentioned above instead of linking 1 and 2). Interesting rock. We did the final optional short not-fun pitch and walked off the back, don't get cliffed (by turning towards starting point too early) and walk is easy. |
By Craig Childre
From: Lubbock, Texas
Oct 31, 2011
| Great point about setting a belay at that turn. Much better if your second isn't as compentent and you'd like to keep a line of sight with them, and makes communication much easier. I recommend that you scramble down from the tree to a lower ledge that has two trees, one slightly uprooted (not recommended) and rap off the better tree, or a pretty new stick of webbing is threaded with a rap ring 20 feet west, but the knots looked bozo to me, so we use the tree. |
By Stan Jones
From: Benbrook, TX
Apr 1, 2012
rating: 5.6 R
| We added some static cord to the in-place rap ring on the lower ledge that you can scramble down to (from P2). Just bring a piece of cord or webbing to back this up and it's a short rap. |
By Stan Jones
From: Benbrook, TX
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.6 R
| Another good place for P1 belay is about 25 ft above the first turn. That keeps you from having huge rope drag at the crux. You can deal with the rope drag on the easier climbing above the second turn. |
By Allen Corneau
From: Houston, TX
Apr 16, 2013
| Rap anchor status as of 4/14/13:
Purple/pink cord (which has been there since at least October 2012) is getting old and should probably be replaced sometime soon. Blue 9/16" super-tape was looking relatively good.
Rap ring still looking good, someone had added some camo-colored 5mm cord to back it up. I retied the cord to a doubled loop. |
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