|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 90'|
|Original:||YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|Submitted By:||ryan laird on Feb 20, 2012|
|Comments on *Laramie Talk Show||Add Comment|
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By Tom Kelley
Jul 11, 2014
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
It seems like the only time I ever named climbs at Reese Mountain that I did with Dented Mcghee was when he really pissed me off.
Laramie Talk Show was the first route Dinged-up and I did at Reese. It was over a rainy Memorial Day weekend in 1995. The route is short but has good, consistent climbing from the get-go. I have very fond memories of it, and no, Dingus didn't give me a play-by-play while I was climbing it. It was a project of his, and he indicated he had brushed it and tried it once or twice. I led a lower pitch (5.10ish) to get to cold shut anchors and a belay shelf at the start of the thin crack, thinking Dinged-up wanted to have another go at it. When he got to the belay shelf, he said he wasn't interested, but that I could give it a try if I wanted.
It was a nice-looking thin crack so I decided to check it out before the rains started again. The foot holds at the start were pretty green and slick and commented it was awfully lichen-covered for having been brushed. Dingy then replied that he didn't brush all of them, but did clean the footholds at the crux. Up higher, my fingers were getting pretty flamed and was way out-of-balance, thinking I was about to fall off. Then low-and-behold, I saw a brushed foothold on the other side of the crack. After a quick shift of weight I was set up for a tips lieback through the crux and on to the summit, with cramped forearms but feeling very proud at having pinched a route from Dingus for once. He followed the pitch and was as grumpy as I have ever seen the old fart. Feeling a bit sorry for him when he got to the belay, I explained that I probably would not have sent the route my first try without him having told me he brushed the crux footholds. In a huffy, gruff Dingus voice he told me "alright, you may have done the first ascent, but it does not count as an onsight because you had prior information about the route." I was sort of miffed at his slight and told him that "all you Laramie climbers do is talk about climbing cracks, but that is all it is, a damned talk show." We both laughed and a route name was born.