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Graveside Matter Wall
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Lap Dance 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a/b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer
Page Views: 349
Submitted By: Karsten Holmquist on Jul 7, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: beta photo- Lap Dance

Description 

Climb three bulges on perfect young limestone to rap anchors. First bulge is surmounted by a committing mantle (pretty common to the Cedar Canyon slabs) and is safely bolted. Bulge #2 requires that a pocket on the left be brushed out & mantle. Dont step on the little tree & dont fall. Bulge #3 has a great horizontal a foot or two back (clean the sand out), definately dont fall if you are just going to mantle. Run away from bulge #3 to the anchor. It is great and prepares you for Psychoslabaddict and such.


Location 

the route is around the corner and 2 or 3 routes to the right of Ghost Rider (5.6) next to a tree.


Protection 

B & H...can be interpreted as about 3 or so Bolts and Hangers or Balls and a Helmet (typical of the Iron County Crew's routes)



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By Karsten Holmquist
Jul 7, 2009

I would very much like to know who did the FA in this little gem. Those folks know what fun is!

By ZachBradford
Jul 13, 2009
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

The route is great! The intro move is Hard but it eases up after that. With a direct start under the first bolt it felt more 11b. I am only 5' 7" may be easier for taller climbers. Either way is a great climb for someone looking for a challenge to get off the ground. The moves up top are worth any effort it takes you at the start.

By Stevel
From: Ferron, Utah
Jun 4, 2010

Fun route. The anchors are in a funky spot because we had put them up for the 'Three Wishes' tv show film crew ( en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three_Wishes ). Figured there was no reason to re-bolt. The starting moves were easier initially, but after a few ascents holds broke or got smaller, and the route got harder.

By ZachBradford
Aug 1, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Hey TP the picture I put up really make messes up the scale. Sorry about that. The anchors for the route were put up in 2005 so there is no way that this is widow maker. Widow maker is further to the left.

As mentioned the picture doesn't really give the route proper scale. The first pocket you can see is at head height it would be a useless placement.

The first location you could place gear would be at 20 feet and then one more at around 30 feet. After the Third bolt the route does run to the top but its 5.4 climbing for the last 10 feet.

By the professor
Sep 7, 2013
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c

Agree with 5.11b for first bulge. Second bulge is 10- and third is 10+. Can only rate it one star because of the dirt/sand that washes down each time it rains. On the other hand, the bolts are well positioned, making the moves quite safe (rather than PG-13).