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DescriptionLaos, or more correctly the Lao People’s Democratic Republic, may not have the climbing reputation of its neighbor Thailand but there’s enough established terrain to lure in the traveling climber for a stopover. The country only opened their doors to tourism a little over a decade ago, and likewise the climbing culture is still young, but the potential is there to establish Laos as destination area in the climbing world. The Lao are friendly and energetic opportunists and are more than willing to invite falang onto their lands if it’ll earn them a buck – or a fraction of. Getting ThereThe capital of Laos, Vientiane, lies on the southern border next to the Thai town Nong Khai and is easily accessible via the Northeastern Train Line from Bangkok. The overnight train is quite comfortable and will drop you off just shy of the border for $20. From Vientiane buses take off all day long for Vang Vieng (3 hours) and Luang Prabang (9 hours). Alternately, if you’re doing the climbing circuit in Thailand you can come in through the west from Chiang Mai and get to Luang Prabang, though the bus-ride in is an arduous journey. Dangers and AnnoyancesLaos has most of the basic dangers of Thailand, so if you’ve read about them you can lose sleep over traveling to Laos as well. If you’ve been there, well, you know that if you just use your head you’ll be ok. The medical care in Laos isn’t near the quality of that in Thailand, if you are seriously hurt you should look to evacuating to Thailand. SeasonsLaos has much more of a wet season than Thailand and sees considerable rain from June to September. Although there are places in Vang Vieng that are climbable in the rain your options will be more limited. Accommodation, Supplies, and Climbing NeedsAccommodation can still be found reasonably cheap in Laos. They have picked up on the rising tourism and are trying their best to capitalize on it, but they’re still a bit new to the art. I had a hotel in Luang Prabang quote me $80 US a night, so I walked across the street, down a little alley and found a nice guest house for 50,000 kip ($6). The prices are far less outrages in Vang Vieng. GuidebooksThere are electronic guides easily available on the net, most notably a three-part guide by Volker Schöffl. I'll refrain from posting links as they change often. The ClassicsMountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Laos:
Chao Ling Chep Lai Lai 5.10b Sport, 45 feet Pha Tang : Sector Calcaneus
Money Can't Buy Me Love 5.11a Sport, 100 feet Pha Tang : Sector Calcaneus
Welcome to the Jungle 5.11+ Sport, 80 feet Pha Tang : Sector Millepede
Pit Viper 5.11d Sport, 70 feet Pha Deang Mountain : Main Wall
Battery Mot Loe 5.12a Sport, 90 feet Pha Deang Mountain : Main Wall
A Million Elephants and a White Parasol 5.12a Sport, 60 feet Pha Tang : Sector Calcaneus
Les Larmes du Chaos 5.12b Sport, 100 feet Pha Tang : Sector Calcaneus
Jungle King 5.12c Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Thakhek : Roof Right Side
Big Smile 5.13c Sport, 1 pitch, 30 feet Thakhek : Roof Right Side
Featured Route For Laos
Pit Viper 5.11d International : Asia : ... : Main Wall
Fantastic steep pocket pulling. While not exactly beta intensive, knowing where to go will save you precious time on the pump clock. The start meanders a bit, following the line of pockets to the right and then back. The direct line goes just a bit harder and probably a cleaner sequence. 5.11d +/- a letter depending on the patch you choose....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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