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Land that Time Forgot

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Ankar Gate S 
Black Sheep T 
Cloak of the Wolf S 
I Love a Cigar T 
Jacob's Ladder S 
Knossos S 
Minoan Maze S 
Nazca Line S 
Oklahoma Princess T,S 
Practislab S 
Riders in the Sky S 
Solarian T 
Temple 19 S 

Land that Time Forgot Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.19, -105.33063 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 30,363
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Darren Mabe on Mar 1, 2007
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The north face is known as the Land that Time Forgot. The routes, along with their names, suggest almost a mystical feel. The friction on this granite is unmatched. You may find yourself sticking to stuff you wouldn't normally think you could. Therefore, it turns out that most are fully bolted face and slab routes, largely established in ground-up-on-lead style. While many of them top out on the saddle, a few adventure to the summit. Some old and very obscure aid route exists as well as some newer trad climbs. The saddle is simply an awesome place and picnic paradise. From here, you can top out on the summit via one of the routes on Velcro Wall, the low angled slabs on the south face.

Getting There 

See Sheeprock description.

Climbing Season

Weather station 3.1 miles from here

13 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Land that Time Forgot

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Land that Time Forgot:
Oklahoma Princess   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
Knossos   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 4 pitches   
Nazca Line   5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b     Sport, 5 pitches   
Solarian   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 500'   
Riders in the Sky   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Sport, 4 pitches   
Minoan Maze   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 4 pitches   
I Love a Cigar   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 5 pitches, 500'   
Practislab   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Ankar Gate   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 3 pitches   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Land that Time Forgot

Featured Route For Land that Time Forgot
Rock Climbing Photo: Goes right up the face to the right of both dead t...

Riders in the Sky 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b CO : South Platte : ... : Land that Time Forgot
4 very long pitches, sometimes climbed in 5 by breaking P1 in two.Pitches (as 4): P1 5.9 14 bolts, P2 5.7 bolts, P3 5.10cR, modest traverse left (the 'R') to two bolts through the crux to a belay. [The R is 5.7, 10.c has good pro], P4 5.10b, bolts to the summit.Don't let the R scare you away, this, like many of the routes up here, is a superb climb and accessible to any mid 5.10 slab aficionado. All belays have 1/2" bolts. Some people have suggested adding another bolt, and I could do that. Desc...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Photos of Land that Time Forgot Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: There she is!!
There she is!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower right side of Land that Time Forgot
Lower right side of Land that Time Forgot
Rock Climbing Photo: Left side of the Land That Time Forgot.
Left side of the Land That Time Forgot.
Rock Climbing Photo: Routes of The Land that Time Forgot. belays and ra...
BETA PHOTO: Routes of The Land that Time Forgot. belays and ra...
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo.
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach beta: the Unknown crack in the egg format...
BETA PHOTO: Approach beta: the Unknown crack in the egg format...
Rock Climbing Photo: A long way up...
A long way up...
Rock Climbing Photo: Left side topo detail.
BETA PHOTO: Left side topo detail.
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing the Nazca Line.
Finishing the Nazca Line.

Comments on Land that Time Forgot Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bill Schmausser
From: Colorado Springs, CO
May 30, 2007
One of the great stories of this rock is Peter Hubbel's "Cave house" he set it up just down from the base of the rock. During the sumer of ...uh...was it 2000?.... He and Charles Traufield and many of his young disciples, put together some deluxe, cave, living accommodations. It was his own little 'Granite Trailer' with all the the expected amenities: sleeping quarters, lounging quarters, bear defenses, white gas, warm beer, canned food. Had their been a Chevy Van and a Trans Am been parked out front and several Lynrd Skynyrd posters stuck to the walls, it could have been in West Virginia. Tragically, the Hayman fire chased him out (and he barely got out) and that trashy little piece of Squatter Bohemia was forever lost. Priceless.
By Trevor
From: Cottonwood Heights, UT
Jun 11, 2007
I have some pics of whomever was on the N. Face of Sheep Rock (Land that Time Forgot) Sunday, June 10, 2007 taken from the top of Acid (over looking climbers from side). I can send them to you or post them here....
By Brian Asbury
Jun 11, 2007
Great Splatte slab/face climbing with big fat new bolts.
Some routes (too?) heavily bolted.
Some routes traditional Splatte bolt spacing.

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