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The north face is known as the Land that Time Forgot. The routes, along with their names, suggest almost a mystical feel. The friction on this granite is unmatched. You may find yourself sticking to stuff you wouldn't normally think you could. Therefore, it turns out that most are fully bolted face and slab routes, largely established in ground-up-on-lead style. While many of them top out on the saddle, a few adventure to the summit. Some old and very obscure aid route exists as well as some newer trad climbs. The saddle is simply an awesome place and picnic paradise. From here, you can top out on the summit via one of the routes on Velcro Wall, the low angled slabs on the south face.
See Sheeprock description.
13 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Land that Time Forgot:
Oklahoma Princess 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Knossos 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, 4 pitches
Nazca Line 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport, 5 pitches
Solarian 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Riders in the Sky 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R Sport, 4 pitches
Minoan Maze 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport, 4 pitches
Practislab 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch
I Love a Cigar 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Ankar Gate 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, 3 pitches
Featured Route For Land that Time Forgot
Cloak of the Wolf 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b CO : South Platte : ... : Land that Time Forgot
This is THE Sheeprock testpiece. It's time for me to let this one go. As far as I know, pitch 3 has not seen a complete redpoint ascent. The Cloak is a well-protected line following the most direct and some of the steepest features to the summit of Sheeprock. The last pitch cuts right through center of the headwall. This also provides the only rap line down the North Face from the summit.Start on the far left side of the North side, at the bivy site. 4th class 30' to the cozy perch.P1: "Gatew...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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