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The north face is known as the Land that Time Forgot. The routes, along with their names, suggest almost a mystical feel. The friction on this granite is unmatched. You may find yourself sticking to stuff you wouldn't normally think you could. Therefore, it turns out that most are fully bolted face and slab routes, largely established in ground-up-on-lead style. While many of them top out on the saddle, a few adventure to the summit. Some old and very obscure aid route exists as well as some newer trad climbs. The saddle is simply an awesome place and picnic paradise. From here, you can top out on the summit via one of the routes on Velcro Wall, the low angled slabs on the south face.
See Sheeprock description.
13 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Land that Time Forgot:
Oklahoma Princess 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Knossos 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a Sport, 4 pitches
Nazca Line 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ E2 5b Sport, 5 pitches
Solarian 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Trad, 4 pitches, 500'
Riders in the Sky 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R Sport, 4 pitches
Minoan Maze 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b Sport, 4 pitches
Practislab 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Sport, 1 pitch
I Love a Cigar 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c Trad, 5 pitches, 500'
Ankar Gate 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c Sport, 3 pitches
Featured Route For Land that Time Forgot
Riders in the Sky 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b R CO : South Platte : ... : Land that Time Forgot
4 very long pitches, sometimes climbed in 5 by breaking P1 in two.Pitches (as 4): P1 5.9 14 bolts, P2 5.7 bolts, P3 5.10cR, modest traverse left (the 'R') to two bolts through the crux to a belay. [The R is 5.7, 10.c has good pro], P4 5.10b, bolts to the summit.Don't let the R scare you away, this, like many of the routes up here, is a superb climb and accessible to any mid 5.10 slab aficionado. All belays have 1/2" bolts. Some people have suggested adding another bolt, and I could do that. Desc...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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