For those looking for a Reef 5.10 that doesn't scare the hell out of you, look no further. This two pitch route is well protected and has some really fun climbing.
Pitch 1 follows a left facing ramp/corner/crack system (1 bolt) up and then over a small roof to 2 bolt belay by a dead tree on a small ledge.
Pitch 2 starts up and left from the dead tree, and then trends right on easy terrain past 1 bolt to the bottom of a left facing weakness. Pull the bulge (2nd bolt) and proceed up a fun series of overlaps. When the angle eases follow the crack to a 2 bolt anchor on the top of Neptune.
Descent: 2 single rope raps back to the base.
First route left of 'Salty Dogs' (see beta photos).
Singles to #3 Camalot with doubles of finger size cams/nuts and #2 and #3 Camalot.
EFR on Pitch 1
Clay M at the crux on Pitch 2
Pitch 2 shown in red
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Aug 22, 2013
This climb is another diamond in the rough. Okay, perhaps another pearl in an oyster. Not very pretty as it looks grungy but once opened it is a cool climb. Deceptively hard climbing for a route that on first impression give you the idea it will be 5.7. The first pitch has really good finger locks and pro. The second pitch starts about 20 feet left on the ledge and heads up to an improbable looking tiered crack/corner. It is really fun as well with good pro. You could shift the belay or lengthen your anchor and stand to the left a bit.