|a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
Tried to warm up on Gelsa and instead of traversing left at a piton 20' up I went straight up. Initial moves up are a bit bouldery and then it settles into nice thin crack and face climbing to a small left facing corner. Climb corner and step right to bolted anchors. Turns out this pitch was real nice. Very exciting when expecting 5.4.
This ONLY describes pitch one. The upper pitches are 10a/b and not recommended in guidebook.
Start as for Gelsa. Instead of traversing left at the piton 20' up continue straight up through a thin crack system to a steep left facing corner. Climb corner and step right to bolted anchors of Fat City Direct. Lowered with a 70m. I do not know if a 60m would make it.
Gear is good. Lots of gear in the fingers range. Couple pitons. Nuts. Bolt anchor at top.
|By Curt Dvonch|
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
There is a big move to get past the thin crack above the piton. The lack of feet makes it difficult for anyone under 6' tall. Those 6' and taller will still find it spicy.
May 29, 2014
Climbed it yesterday, enjoyed it.
I'm much less than 6 feet tall, and just above the old piton did seem like the hardest move. But I did not find it to be a "big" move -- rather it took some clever footwork and balance. I'm sure that there's some human body height+reach below which the move is much harder, but I don't think 6 feet tall is where the divider comes.
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 24, 2014
I am 5'2" and lead this today. I think if you try and climb the flake there would be a BIG move. If you traverse right at the bottom of the flake and climb the face, there are plenty of holds all reasonably spaced. I enjoyed the moves up the corner above, look around and you can find a really easy way to ascend that corner. Anchor is up above and way to the right.
Climbed on doubles, 60M. Made it back to the ground with rope to spare.