|a. Beginning of cliff to Gelsa
Tried to warm up on Gelsa and instead of traversing left at a piton 20' up I went straight up. Initial moves up are a bit bouldery and then it settles into nice thin crack and face climbing to a small left facing corner. Climb corner and step right to bolted anchors. Turns out this pitch was real nice. Very exciting when expecting 5.4.
This ONLY describes pitch one. The upper pitches are 10a/b and not recommended in guidebook.
Start as for Gelsa. Instead of traversing left at the piton 20' up continue straight up through a thin crack system to a steep left facing corner. Climb corner and step right to bolted anchors of Fat City Direct. Lowered with a 70m. I do not know if a 60m would make it.
Gear is good. Lots of gear in the fingers range. Couple pitons. Nuts. Bolt anchor at top.
|Comments on Land of The Giants
|By Curt Dvonch|
Sep 8, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
There is a big move to get past the thin crack above the piton. The lack of feet makes it difficult for anyone under 6' tall. Those 6' and taller will still find it spicy.